Good Friday at the Colosseum: a Way of the Cross on Palatine Hill

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The Pope led the Way of the Cross on a makeshift path set on Palatine Hill, facing the Colosseum. After two years of pandemic restrictions, a solemn scene returned to memory and faith as the first Christian martyrs were symbolically recalled in this outdoor meditation.

Families took center stage as they carried the Cross from station to station, eventually reaching the Pope who spoke a prayer for peace and reflection. The Ukrainian conflict loomed over the prayers, but the focus rested on dialogue and shared humanity. Two women, one from Ukraine and one from Russia, bore the Cross at the thirteenth station, a reminder of Jesus’s final earthly hours.

Andrii Yurash, the Ukrainian ambassador to the Vatican, spoke of the difficulties and possible consequences surrounding any gesture of solidarity. In a message on his official Twitter account, he expressed understanding and support for the idea of uniting Ukrainian and Russian women who would carry the Cross on Good Friday at the Colosseum. He noted that discussions were underway to explain the potential effects of such a move and to weigh its implications.

The Colosseum in the background during the religious ceremony. Reuters

Archbishop Visvaldas Kulbokas, the apostolic nuncio to Ukraine, told the Catholic magazine Credo that he would not organize prayers in that manner. He said reconciliation would come when aggression ceases and when Ukrainians can safeguard both their lives and their freedom. He asserted that reconciliation occurs when the aggressor acknowledges guilt and offers apologies.

Similarly, Sviatoslav Shevchuk, the Greek Catholic Archbishop of Ukraine, called the idea inappropriate and unclear. He described the texts and gestures of station thirteen as hard to understand and sometimes disturbing.

This Via Crucis drew the largest crowd ever seen at the Colosseum. Fourteen stations were carried by fourteen families, each stepping through the path in a ceremony that mixed tradition with contemporary relevance.

Set near Flavio’s Amphitheater, the ancient arena that owes its name to the Flavian dynasty, thousands of faithful and curious visitors gathered each year to witness the portrayal of Jesus’s journey toward the crucifixion. This year marked the tenth Via Crucis headed by a figure who has never carried the Cross before, a veteran pope who listened to the prayers and hopes of those present.

Two young women, Irina from Ukraine and Albina from Russia, led the thirteenth station alongside their families. Irina works in palliative care at the facility “Together in Care,” while Albina studies nursing at the Campus Bio-Medico University. Both reside in Rome and shared a bond that blossomed in their work and friendship.

Irina recalled her conversation with Albina on the occasion, telling L’Osservatore Romano about the moment their paths crossed. Their eyes filled with tears as Albina apologized for the violence in their homelands, an apology that Irina refused to accept as fault. Their dialogue emphasized shared humanity and the resolve to stand together for peace. The notion of unity and collaboration remained a central thread, underscoring the belief that compassion can outlast conflict.

Jesuit Antonio Spadaro, director of Civiltà Cattolica and a prominent thinker on Francis’s papacy, offered a candid view of the pope’s role. He described Francis as a priest first, not a politician, guided by evangelical compassion that seeks peace even amid a grim war. Spadaro noted that the Holy Father embraces humanity and hope—an attitude that places reconciliation at the heart of action rather than at its margins.

In Rome, the event blended history with current events, inviting reflection on faith, conflict, and the power of shared rituals to foster dialogue. The crowd looked on as this age-old rite intersected with present-day concerns, reminding participants that prayers can be a bridge even in times of deep disagreement. The day ended with a quiet sense of solidarity, and a reminder that people can choose mercy and unity when violence demands a different response.

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