Butterfish and the Curious Case of a Controversial Name
With a name that grabs attention, this snack already signals a distinct taste appeal. The fish known as butterfish has gained popularity and a favored spot on menus in Spanish restaurants that offer Asian cuisine, especially those incorporating Japanese dishes or blending Japanese influences. Despite a ban on its consumption in Italy and in Japan since 1977, it is not actively marketed or served in most restaurants, though some individuals prepare it at home at their own risk. In the family called escolar, often referred to by children as a misnamed species, confusion persists because it is regarded as a toxic product. Other fish with a buttery texture also carry the butterfish label. The most common variety in this context is white pomfret, which is utilized in nigiri, sushi, and sashimi and is typically eaten raw.
The question arises: why such a butter ban? The reason cited is potential gastrointestinal discomfort, ranging from mild and short-lived to more serious symptoms lasting one or two days, including diarrhea and nausea. It is advised not to exceed about 170 grams in a single serving, with extra caution advised for vulnerable groups such as children, the elderly, pregnant individuals or those with compromised immune systems. Overall, there is insufficient scientific consensus to establish a universally safe daily intake level.
In August 2004, the European Food Safety Authority issued guidance noting that species sometimes labeled as raspberries, Ruvettus pretiosus and Lepidocybium flavobrunneum, may cause adverse gastrointestinal effects under certain conditions. In the European Union, such products may be marketed but must be properly packaged, clearly labeled with both the commercial and scientific names to prevent mislabeling or substitution, and accompanied by clear preparation instructions. Specifically, fat should be reduced by removing the skin; raw preparations should be avoided, with grilling or similar cooking preferred, and small portions recommended for first-time consumers. The Spanish Agency for Food Safety and Nutrition echoed these cautions, emphasizing that butterfish is often sold as slices or fillets and is difficult to distinguish once cut, making accurate labeling essential for consumer safety.
In March 2017, the Government of the Canary Islands, via the Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and Fisheries, announced the capture of two species within the group commonly called schoolfish in waters around the archipelago. The striking sizzling text and dark coloration warned that consumption could cause gastrointestinal issues in some individuals. While hunting these species is not strictly prohibited, commercialization details require adherence to a defined action protocol. At first point of sale, fish pieces must be boxed with only specimens of that species, kept on ice, wrapped, refrigerated, and clearly labeled with a warning about the health risks. Guidance also clarifies best preparation methods, such as fat removal through grilling, and advises avoiding overly saucy or heavy stews. Public access to these protocol instructions is emphasized.
Yet the appealing name has persisted, and so has the confusion. The question remains: how certain are we that what is being eaten truly qualifies as butterfish? Different species share this label, including pomfret, escolar, black cod, and related fish. When authentic, the flesh is white, firm, and delicate, with a touch of fat that almost melts on the palate, requiring little chewing and carrying a buttery impression. Its subtle aroma makes it a versatile companion to bold flavors. Renowned chefs have embraced it, with notable figures in Japanese-Spanish culinary fusion contributing to its popularity. One chef, Ricardo Sanz, has blended Japanese and Spanish techniques for more than two decades, first at Kabuki Wellington and later at Ricardo Sanz Wellington, earning Michelin recognition and multiple accolades. This lineage is reflected in various nigiri interpretations and derived creations, including innovations that pair butterfish with anticucho sauces and Peruvian seasonings, showcased at contemporary Nikkei establishments.
In the Canary Islands, the Gastronomy Fishing Atlas, scientifically coordinated by Juan Antonio González with contributions from Yuri Millares and photography by Tato Goncalves, discusses smoked escolar with orange-tinted reductions, among other preparations. A chef from a southern Tenerife resort describes smoking it with almond shells to imitate certain cheeses from La Palma, while another Canarian chef devised a dish layering goose fat with butterfish, demonstrating the diverse ways this ingredient can be approached in fusion cuisine. Such narratives underscore how butterfish has become a fashionable element within Asian-inspired and contemporary chef-led menus.
Another notable example features a Belgian-born Canarian chef who built a signature dish around thinly sliced butterfish layered with goose fat and other components, cooked in a controlled water bath to achieve a delicate balance of textures and flavors. The result showcases the versatility of the ingredient when treated with precision and creative technique, illustrating how butterfish has endured as a focal point in innovative menus across the region.
The culinary trend continues to expand across restaurants serving Asian or fusion cuisine, where butterfish remains a regular feature on menus. Some island distributors offer frozen fillet portions marketed as a fatty fish suited to Asian preparations. These products are typically served raw or marinated with Asian seasoning blends.
Best advice for curious diners: approach with mindfulness and season with knowledge. This means understanding the risks, identifying labels accurately, and appreciating the culinary potential while respecting safety guidance. For those exploring at home, it is essential to be aware that mislabeling can occur, and that proper handling and cooking methods play a critical role in reducing health concerns. Consumers are encouraged to seek transparent labeling and rely on trusted suppliers when exploring butterfish-based dishes.