Vineyards are on the edge: stunted vineyards that choke the wine

The harvest came early and was scarce in 2023, which was already completed. Shaken by an insatiable drought that devastated everything, vineyards across much of the Spanish territory refused to bear fruit. Wine production is collapsing as the vines are hopelessly dry and grapes are scarce on the market. And its price is increasing rapidly.

Cellers Domenys is a Catalan cooperative founded in 1917. Its general manager says that in its more than 100-year history, “it has never experienced what it has experienced this year”: Lluís Roig. Seven wineries make up this institution, together accounting for more than 2,000 hectares of vineyards. A business success story facing the most obvious consequences of climate change. “The survival of the facility is in doubt and we see the future of the families at stake,” he says. roig. It refers to more than 600 partners who make up this structure and finance it with their contributions, their own resources and a financial department affiliated with the Generalitat of Catalonia.

The cooperative, headquartered in Sant Jaume dels Domenys (Tarragona), saw grape production decrease by more than half. If they collected 18 million kilos in 2022, they collected only 7 million kilos in 2023. “We are experiencing a new, exceptional and worrying period: drought. reduce structures and reduce costs” he continues.

The cooperative harvested 18 million kilos of grapes in 2022 and invoiced 15.5 million kilos. It will not reach 8 million kilos in 2023

They could only produce seven million kilos of grapes. 4.5 million liters of wineThe normal thing is to reach 12. Half a million was used to fill bottles of Domenio’s own wine and cava brand, born in 2019. They are currently distributed in nine countries, but the aim is; He increased this line of business significantly until it produced five million bottles. The remaining four million are for bulk sales. The cooperative, which more than doubled its revenue last year, issued an invoice of 15.5 million euros. But these figures cannot be taken as an indication of how 2023 will end, because wine prices have skyrocketed precisely to compensate for the fruit shortage. The general manager refuses to explain the cooperative’s expectations for now. in order to protect the interests of its partners.

Bottle prices continue to rise. According to the calculations of the general manager, there was an increase of 70 to 80 percent in one year in the basic material known as raw wine. “We came from last year’s price [2022]This was not true. Because there was a product then,” he justifies.

However, the fact that the wine was sold with such a significant price increase “does not save the situation and does not mean that this is reflected on the consumer.” At least not entirely. It’s a complex study, taking into account that grapes become 227% more expensive between October and December, and are 44% more expensive by 2022.

This situation “is not good for the bottlers, because they have to buy the wines at an extra cost that they cannot reflect in their selling price,” he thinks. roig. “You might think that this is a big job for a vinedresser, but it is not. The vinedresser prefers a normal harvest at the right price, rather than a 30% of what he previously produced, which he will sell at a very expensive price,” he says. “No matter how expensive you sell it, if there are no grapes, there will be no income,” he argues. And in this case, the cooperative will lose its purpose of “guaranteeing its members a reasonable and fair price so that they can continue quality production.”

Moreover, roig He explains that a certain sentimentality develops in rural areas. “When the farmer sees that his plants are damaged and may not survive, it is difficult for him to see that his hard work for a year does not bear fruit,” he notes.

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Diversifying businesses is often a way out of crises. The chief executive is committed to “promoting alliances and considering strategies that allow diversification of activities.” They therefore created a wine tourism area that was born to take advantage of an industrial winery known as Vi Cathedral, designed by the architect. Cesar Martinell There they will delve into wine culture, the Catalan cooperative model and the figure of this modernist architect. Guided tours and tastings will also be offered. However, its completion depends on the arrival of public funds and state and regional aid. “We expect these to be resolved. We foresee this in mid-2024. The situation of the sector does not allow us to make this investment on our own,” he complains. roig.

However, despite future expectations, currently It’s hard to think of anything else other than saving crops. “We must return to normal production. This is our plan now,” he concludes.

Source: Informacion

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