Bombshell in the world of high-end food: “Amazing rene redzepi“He who has all the recognition in the world said he closed his restaurant because the high-quality food was unsustainable.” joan rockthe school from which three Michelin stars graduated El Celler de Can Roca (Girona) ‘understands why’ Danish chef announcing the opening of his restaurant with his brothers Josep and Jordi no mom He will bid farewell to 2024 (chosen as the best in the world up to five times), but he also thinks that the profession of a haute kitchen chef should be carried out “with the utmost naturalness and normality”. Roca gives a recipe that looks simple but isn’t: “The system is aggressive and demanding, but should not affect the most important thing: being happy to cook”.
For Roca, in any case, sustainability of the business can be passed through “creating complementary concepts or seeking strong alliances with brands”. -El Celler de Can Roca produced projects with BBVA, for example-“. The chef also distinguishes between Noma, which opened its doors in 2003, and his restaurant, which has “deep roots” due to its family tradition of hospitality and a promising future (new generations of Roca are already joining the project). “It’s complex but solutions need to be found: in our case, when trying to encourage workers to compromise, two brigades: one works at noon, the other at night, in search of more rational hours”. Roca tells on the phone as he goes out to Timanfaya in Lanzarote: El Celler de Can Roca will remain closed until January 17th.
The news also draws attention with the restaurant being closed. Francis Paniegorelais & châteaux, which is at the head of another criterion with a long history and many turnovers Echaurren Portal (2 Michelin stars in Ezcaray, La Rioja). “We are renovating the kitchen: it was needed after 40 years and we need to prepare it for the next 40 years”. Paniego is “very sad” that Noma is closing. “I ate there and was very happy.”
Paniego’s recipe for resilience in business is also part of the ‘Roca formula’: family, family and family. “We have been open for 125 years, we have a very long history full of joys and sorrows that we can carry together.” For the Riojan chief, The world of high-end cuisine requires not only eating well, but also knowing how to keep a business’s accounts.. “If the economic model fails, there is no sustainability worth it. There should be benefits in every company”.
Paniego, 54, explains that “the generation of the late 90s and early 2000s was looking for the opening of a wonderful gastronomic restaurant like the culmination of a dream.” accepts this The current trend may be to create smaller and more controllable concepts, such as Pedro Sánchez’s concept in Bagá. (Jaén, with a few tables. “Watch out, Pedro is also a genius and has a ruthless talent.”
The Bagá chief reacted to the Noma ad on the networks with a message in line with Redzepi’s message: “Haute cuisine as we know it now is emotionally and economically unsustainable.” he tweeted. Sánchez pointed out that “pressure” and “fatigue” are obstacles to the true purpose of any purpose in life: “Do what you do with happiness.” expressing the same Maria José San Romafrom the restaurant monastrell (Alicante) started a new era in 2021 after losing its Michelin star.
“I feel so free now,” explains the chef, who has also just received the Fine Arts Gold Medal: “And I didn’t need three Michelin stars to get it”, explains with a laugh. That’s why dedicating yourself to gourmet cuisine -the mission to which he devoted most of his life- “An effort worthy of a better cause, because it has reached complete nonsense”. He gives as an example the experience of a friend who spent time working in San Román, Noma. “There was a dessert with a dishwasher overlap and he dedicated himself to making 1,500 a day. Just that. It doesn’t make sense”.
Chief from Alicante, “Redzepi discovered a lot and did a lot of research in certain areas.As the Danish chef explains, it makes sense to him that his next step is to work on food innovation. “Follow in the footsteps of mentor Ferran AdriàIt has already done the same thing by shutting down elBulli in 2011. We must slay the beast that has turned into mediocrity and the elite kitchen full of fireworks.. You see it clearly when gastronomy conventions come: chefs take the stage and they have nothing to say anymore!”. According to San Roman It’s time for a “more humane” gastronomy that starts from the ground up.. For example, it doesn’t make much sense to want to convert olive oil into something else without knowing what olive oil really is.”
“Sometimes I think of that ‘I forgot to live’ thing,” says Porto from Porto tono perezhalf of relais & castles atrium (Cáceres) is one of the most satisfied chefs of the past year, when he achieved his third Michelin star with José Polo and perhaps more than three decades at the foot of the canyon. “I’m in Portugal, but I’m not on vacation, I’m working,” Pérez says. guarantees that it works between 16 and 18 hours a day.”. Despite this, he feels “privileged to be able to devote his life to one of the most beautiful professions there is”.
For Pérez, whether the gourmet cuisine will survive depends on each: “When people ask me if I have a job, I always say I have another job.. In the Atrio project, 2 and 2 do not add up to 4. It’s not an easy road and it’s true, you hardly take any time for yourself”. However, in his case, he sees himself as more than rewarded: “For being able to bring so many people from all over the world closer to an area like Extremadura… It’s a project we give our life for, and it’s worth it: we’re happy.”. It takes a little more thought before deciding whether to continue or not.
Source: Informacion
Barbara Dickson is a seasoned writer for “Social Bites”. She keeps readers informed on the latest news and trends, providing in-depth coverage and analysis on a variety of topics.