Regards to Vivienne Westwood and Paco Rabanne
The fashion world said farewell to two iconic figures, with Vivienne Westwood passing away on December 29, 2022, and Paco Rabanne following on February 3, 2023. In Paris, commemorations honored the founders of both houses and reflected the enduring influence of their legacies.
Paco Rabanne’s tribute led the way. Julien Dossena, Rabanne’s creative director, showcased dresses that framed paintings by Salvador Dalí, a friend and contemporary in spirit. The runway also featured the famous chainmail designs Rabanne helped popularize, pieces that once drew praise and critique alike. Among the lineup were five vintage creations from the 1960s, including outfits made for Françoise Hardy and Doniel Luna, reminding audiences of Rabanne’s audacious archival era.
The Vivienne Westwood segment carried a deeper emotional weight. The show was staged by Westwood’s husband and collaborator, Andreas Kronthaler, and the collection echoed Westwood’s “Queen of Punk” persona while including portraits of the designer on select looks. The finale brought out her granddaughter, Cora Corr, who appeared as a bride wearing a white lace bodice mini dress with high boots, complemented by horns in the hair and a bouquet of daffodils, underscoring the personal and political spirit that defined Westwood’s work.
Coperni made a bold statement with technology on the Paris catwalk. After last year’s buzzworthy spray dress moment featuring Bella Hadid, the label introduced two Boston Dynamics robots into the show. The robots interacted with models, presenting a mix of play and edge: one robot handed a purse to Lila Grace, daughter of Kate Moss, while another robot disrobed a model, leaving her in a single dress-like silhouette as the scene evolved.
Balenciaga marked its return to the runway as part of the season’s conversations following recent controversies. The brand’s creative leadership, including Demna Gvasalia, faced scrutiny over campaigns that sparked debate about ethics and safety. The company responded with measures aimed at safeguarding brand perception while continuing to push fashion’s boundaries. The collection drew attention for its restrained presentation, centering on clean lines, floral motifs, and tailored silhouettes that signaled a pivot toward measured, thoughtful design after the turbulence of the previous year.
Observers offered mixed impressions. Some critics described the season as lacking surprise, while others noted refreshed moods and refined craftsmanship. Conversations on social media reflected a range of perspectives, from frustration with repetition to appreciation for new directions and the discipline of the latest line. Industry voices weighed in on whether the brand should chase color and experimentation or embrace a steadier path that honors long-standing codes. A prominent stylist commented that the season felt more conservative than expected, while another noted the shift toward a more classic wardrobe with contemporary twists.
Horses on the Stella McCartney show added a dramatic, narrative element to Paris Fashion Week. The presentation took place at the Manege de l Ecole Militaire, France’s historic riding school, where trained horses appeared to Depeche Mode’s Personal Jesus and stayed for the duration of the show. Models moved with measured steps along a sandy runway, wearing dresses that echoed equestrian motifs and jockey-inspired boots. Stella McCartney explained that the display reflected a dual intent: celebrate a love of horses and advocate for animal protection. She pointed to a commitment to materials that avoid leather and fur, underscoring a stance that aligns style with ethical considerations and environmental awareness. The message resonated with audiences seeking transparent, values-driven fashion choices.
Louis Vuitton faced a wave of online criticism before its Paris show even began. A teaser suggested support for a political stance related to current events, sparking debates about symbolism and audience reception. Critics questioned whether the imagery and messaging crossed lines, prompting responses from public figures and media personalities. The brand later removed the controversial post as discussions continued about whether luxury fashion could responsibly engage with social and geopolitical narratives without alienating parts of its audience. The moment highlighted the power and risk inherent in fashion as a cultural mirror during major global events.
Meanwhile, Kimhekim captured attention with a striking show that fused artistry and spectacle. A model walked the runway in nude-toned undergarments complemented by an imaginative headpiece adorned with strings of pearls. The finale resolved the look with a clever interpretation of jewelry as fabric, scattering beads in fields of light and dark tones. The event underscored how designers can transform materials into dramatic statements while maintaining thematic cohesion across a collection.
Irina Shayk stepped into the spotlight as a replacement for Bella Hadid, who was unavailable for this cycle of Paris shows. The Russian model joined multiple houses, including Isabel Marant, Schiaparelli, Victoria Beckham, and Vivienne Westwood, contributing to a season marked by high attendance and visible star power. In another turn, Yevgeny Kafelnikov’s daughter appeared among the attendees, symbolizing the crossovers between sport, media, and fashion that polarize and energize contemporary runways. The presence of emerging talent alongside established figures reinforced Paris Fashion Week as a nexus for global talent across disciplines.
Front-row moments continued to captivate audiences. Avril Lavigne drew attention for an unexpected public display during Mugler’s event, sharing a close moment with Tyga amid the brand’s fragrance launch. Other stars, such as Julia Fox, Jared Leto, and Emily Ratajkowski, offered memorable appearances in bold styling choices, ranging from sultry to avant-garde, reminding viewers that fashion events are as much about personality and storytelling as they are about garments. The week’s atmosphere blended drama, celebrity, and artistry, creating a living gallery where designers, models, and audiences converge to celebrate fashion as culture and conversation. Source attributions: Paris Fashion Week event coverage and critical commentary from industry observers.