Many believe the trench coat’s history traces back to the First World War, imagined as a warm, practical raincoat built for soldiers enduring long hours in the trenches. Features like a high collar, waterproof fabric, back storm flaps, and deep pockets were said to help soldiers withstand bad weather while offline on the front lines.
In reality, that belief misses the mark. Yes, trench coats proved invaluable during World War I, but their origins reach further back in time.
Fashion historian and cultural scholar Megan Virtanen, author of the book Soviet Fashion 1917-1991, explains that the trench coat’s roots extend to 1879, when Thomas Burberry created gabardine—a fabric woven from Egyptian cotton in a distinctive twill. The fabric’s sloping, fine rib enabled water droplets to roll off, and after a patent was granted in 1888, the garment earned a reputation for weather resistance and rugged durability. Five years later, Fridtjof Nansen, the Norwegian polar explorer, reportedly incorporated the Burberry trench coat into his Arctic gear, and by 1900 the military began showing interest in a new kind of uniform, Virtanen notes.
Vogue also traces early ideas to the 1820s, when Scottish chemist Charles Mackintosh and British rubber pioneer Thomas Hancock developed a waterproof outerwear that straddled the line between coat and raincoat. It found its first practical use among hunters and fishermen.
In 1853, under the Aquascutum label, London tailor John Emary developed a more advanced raincoat. Thomas Burberry later refined the concept, treating individual fibers with water-repellent finishes—a shift that helped define the modern trench coat as a functional piece for rainy weather. Aquascutum and Burberry both claim a key role in crafting the trench coat that served soldiers and officers in the early 20th century, and soon afterward this wardrobe staple moved into civilian life.
As Virtanen notes, the trench coat likely arrived in Russia through wartime supply routes to the tsarist government, though volumes remained modest. Unlike leather coats, trench coats did not see widespread copying in the 1920s, which meant limited availability until later popular culture made the style mainstream. The trench coat became a cinematic symbol as Humphrey Bogart wore variations in classic films, inspiring fashion-conscious audiences to imitate the look, though tailoring such a coat to order remained costly for some buyers.
During the 1940s, the trench coat shed its military associations and surged into mainstream fashion, aided by Hollywood stars. Fashion discourse links the Western revival of trench coat style to the early 1960s, sparked by Audrey Hepburn’s iconic appearance in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The silhouette, elegance, and versatility of the coat helped it cross over from utility to high style, echoing in film and on the street alike.
Prominent designers—Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Paul Poiret, Madeleine Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli, Hubert de Givenchy, and others—reimagined the trench’s classic lines in the last century. The result is a version that looks markedly different from the early civil-service models, with revisions to fit modern fabrics and tastes. Even Burberry and Aquascutum have updated their original designs to align with current preferences.
By the early 2000s, trench coats were ubiquitous, seen in Burberry’s heritage pieces and contemporary imitations alike. In the United Kingdom, the brand faced a period of public perception shifts, requiring renewed effort to reclaim prestige after a phase of widespread association with less stylish trends. Contemporary fashion editors have followed the coat’s evolution into the 2010s, with prominent personalities and influencers shaping tastes across social media platforms. A notable example is Kim Kardashian, whose affinity for oversized trench coats from top houses brought additional attention to the silhouette; designers have crafted special renditions for her, further fueling cultural dialogue around the coat.
Today, personal stylists observe that the trench coat retains much of its original spirit while adapting to new aesthetics. It often features a looser silhouette and a relaxed shoulder line, allowing it to be worn confidently under jackets or oversized hooded layers. Minimalist detailing has become a hallmark, with fewer decorative fastenings and a streamlined look that emphasizes fabric quality and cut.
Traditionally the staple color was khaki, but Burberry helped popularize a signature sand shade that has endured since the 1920s. Materials have diversified, with fabrics ranging from traditional textiles to faux or genuine leather, and color palettes expanding to include navy, black, brown, and graphite. The trench coat remains a versatile piece for many outfits, pairing with a wide array of styles and occasions.
Styling guidance emphasizes balance: a trench coat works best with thoughtful choices that avoid clashing silhouettes. When pairing with the coat, avoid sneakers or tight-fitting pants that could diminish the garment’s elongating effect. A focused approach to footwear and bottom wear helps maintain the coat’s streamlined line and the wearer’s overall proportion.