The most talked-about moment at Moscow Fashion Week came when Larisa Dolina walked the Dzhemal Makhmudov show. The designer, renowned for dressing Dolina and many of her peers, staged a striking look: a tight black corset and trousers glimmering with mirror shards, paired with a lush green cloak resembling the colors of the Russian flag. Dolina shared the spotlight with model colleagues, including Anastasia Volochkova in a peach dress accented with a bow and Alena Blin, who drew attention from the Telegram channel Antiglyanets, described as the villain from a cartoon.
Reaction to Dolina’s outfit swirled across social media, with some critics arguing that clothing representing the national flag was too bold a statement. Dzhemal Makhmudov responded in a post on Instagram, noting that fashion is about trendsetting and self-expression. He described creativity as a form of risk that frees the artist, stating his respect for country and culture as part of his reality. The post underscored the designer’s belief that fashion should reflect personal truth and contemporary life.
In addition to Dolina, international guests attended performances during the week. At the Maison Esve show, Ornela Muti’s 49-year-old daughter Nike Rivelli appeared in a floor-length lace gown, while Ornela watched from the front row.
Chinese actress Lily Ji joined the international contingent, presenting in vintage national-inspired dresses and attending the EFREMOV, BEENA, and Julia Dalakian collections. Ji particularly praised the GAPANOVICH lineup, calling it the week’s standout collection for its beauty and craftsmanship.
musical discoveries
The week opened with a memorable musical moment as rapper Timati headlined the gala show of Russian designers at the International Exhibition and Forum Russia, held at the 75th pavilion of VDNKh. The runway was tuned to the rhythm of live music, creating a dynamic backdrop for the designs.
As the week concluded, the gala featured a show by Russian fashion schools, highlighted by the OTYKEN group from Krasnoyarsk. The performers, representing indigenous peoples of Siberia, used a jew’s harp and deerskin drums to deliver folk-pop songs with throat singing in Chulym, Khakass, Dolgan, and Russian. The result was a vivid fusion of tradition and modern street-energy that left a lasting impression on attendees.
Keep up with the times
Ethical fashion trends also took center stage in Moscow. The by/DAS/ brand, created by three young designers, unveiled an upcycled knitwear line featuring playful greens, swamp tones, and goblincore browns that resonated with younger audiences. The Tyumen label Tweed&Ko showcased vintage wool fabrics from a historic factory, translating older materials into contemporary coats and suits that flashed bold colors at times. Across the scene, designers embraced natural materials such as linen, nettle, and cotton to demonstrate environmental awareness without sacrificing style.
There was a conscious push toward inclusive beauty on the runway. Echoing the inclusivity seen in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, Moscow featured models with Down syndrome, including Martin Kalagin and Alina Khusainova, walking for Kuzina, a brand from Ulyanovsk. Their presence marked a meaningful step toward broader representation on the catwalks of the city.
From far away countries
The event drew designers from Asia, Africa, and Latin America, expanding the palette of Moscow’s fashion week. Brands from Indonesia, Costa Rica, Brazil, Egypt, Tunisia, South Africa, India, China, and Ethiopia presented collections. Expectations for a riot of Brazilian color were tempered by the AO house, which offered restrained tones with historical silhouettes. Tunisian label Anissa Aida drew inspiration from traditional ceramics, though the impact was more subtle. Indonesian label IRMASARI JOEDAWINATA impressed with crinkled silk pieces that reflected Southeast Asian textile sensibilities.
In colors and ethnic patterns
Trendspotters noted a continued celebration of florals across Moscow’s runways. Three-dimensional blooms, bold floral prints, and decorative petals appeared throughout shows. While sheer fabrics like tulle and organza made frequent appearances, the style remained reserved compared to some fashion capitals, avoiding visible undergarments onstage. The overall mood leaned toward creative modesty while embracing texture and volume.
p>Another thread running through the week was a rethinking of ethnicity and traditional crafts. EFREMOV introduced a streetwear collection that incorporated Kuzey Mezen painting motifs, while Orenshal from Orenburg presented a runway display featuring a variety of feathered shawls, highlighting how traditional textiles can maintain modern relevance.