On Madrid’s Spring-Summer Stage, a Bold Homage to Craft and Color
The fashion conversation shifted from pure crossover trends to a vivid runway narrative that felt like a moving art installation. Juan Carlos Mesa presented an eclectic collection inspired by the 3rd century Roman emperor Elagabalus, a figure known for challenging gender norms and pushing boundaries of identity. The designer’s aim was clear: to craft garments that not only catch the eye but also touch the soul, inviting every viewer to see themselves reflected in the textiles and silhouettes.
On the opening day of the 2023 spring-summer podium in Madrid, Mesa’s parade unfolded under the artistic direction of Dani Pannullo. The lineup emphasized color and geometric patterns designed to grant freedom of movement, while exploring themes of femininity and desire through bold volumes and dramatic pitches. The collection threaded together moments of spectacle with wearable elegance, balancing evening glamour with everyday practicality.
Across the forty-five looks, the show seamlessly integrated gowns with shirts, jackets, and other components of daily wear, all enriched by striking embroidery. The result was a wardrobe where elaborate details could be seen in both elaborate gowns and more casual pieces, creating a cohesive narrative of craft meeting contemporary style.
Handmade Details and a Celebration of Craft
Artisanal techniques form the backbone of Mesa’s latest work. Juan Carlos Pajares, born in Guadalajara in 1993, focuses on summer and winter pieces that pair traditional craft with forward-thinking design. The collection becomes a hymn to craftsmanship, with the belief that the artisan’s work endures beyond seasons and trends, adding a human rhythm to high fashion.
According to Pajares, the collection does not seek to be overly ambitious; instead, it anchors itself in the distinctive craftsmanship of Castilla-La Mancha. The garments mingle ceramics, blown glass elements, hand embroidery, crocheting, and century-old looms, weaving in textures and motifs that honor the slow, deliberate process of making. The result is a line that feels both timeless and modern, with a tactile richness that stands out on the runway.
Influences from historic dress codes and a modern sensibility converge in Pajares’s work. The silhouettes echo an era of elegance while incorporating contemporary materials and precise finishes. This marriage of past and present creates a look that resonates with audiences familiar with Paco Rabanne-inspired metallic accents and other iconic references, yet remains distinctly fresh and wearable for today’s shoppers. The designer notes that the line aims to be commercially viable while promoting techniques that can be preserved for future fashion communities across Europe and beyond, including markets in North America and the Middle East.
As the show progressed, Pedro del Hierro brought a dialogue between daywear and nightwear to the male and female runways, punctuated by moments of cinematic tailoring. Actor Javier Rey demonstrated a rhythm that blended lifestyle versatility with a sense of refined drama, underscoring a broader theme of clothing as a storytelling medium rather than mere attire.
Nacho Aguayo, Álex Miralles, and a Palette of Events
Nacho Aguayo and Álex Miralles, the creative leads for color and fabric narrative, crafted garments that range from sea-toned blues to pale pinks, stark whites, and deep blacks. Their approach centers on event-ready pieces and red-carpet silhouettes, highlighting how texture and hue can orchestrate mood for significant occasions.
Aguayo explained that the collection offers personalized pieces created by a trio of artisans who are encouraged to express their own universes through crochet, embroidery, or painted effects. This collaborative process elevates the pieces beyond trend-driven fashion, turning them into curated statements that speak to individuality and artisanal pride.
Rounding out the lineup, climate-conscious designers Juanjo Máñez and Paloma Álvarez of Malne introduced timeless garments that invite responsible consumption and a respectful approach to nature. Their approach demonstrates how sustainable principles can coexist with classic aesthetics, producing garments that endure beyond a single season.