How does snow feel?
Winter in the Kola Peninsula paints days with quiet light. The sun climbs only briefly, tipping above the horizon in the late afternoon before slipping back into/ twilight. For a few hours each day, light lingers just long enough to wander the Volosyanaya Hill above Kandalaksha Bay, to admire fir trees heavy with soft snow, to study the pale mist where the sea should be, to sip tea on a terrace, and to retrace the slow rise and fall of the landscape.
Before this winter escape, a group of journalists and bloggers visiting Khibiny as part of the Media Intelligence program prepared for the chill. They dressed in ski pants, sturdy trekking boots, warm hats and gloves, and protective face cream. A guide warned that the summit, rising merely 475 meters, could feel almost too warm as the group moved along the snowy road toward Kandalaksha, though the temperature hovered around minus 16 degrees and fog clung to the hills.
On the ascent, the desire to loosen belts and capture the moment grows strong. Endless photographs beckon—the haze that hides the sea revealing glimpses of a soft pink dawn, the ice-coated double house ready for visitors, spruce trees bent by wind and sprinkled with snow like cotton. The snow itself feels delicate and light, sparkling in shades of blue and gray as it flutters down in fluffy flakes. In places wind has packed the snow, turning some patches into something almost like pavement, yet snowshoes are advised for safer passage.
Nearby, rabbit tracks mark the white surface. Human presence remains scarce for now; however, January will see many travelers following the Volosyanaya Hill route. This peak is a favorite for short excursions around Kandalaksha, especially in summer when rocks reveal themselves and hold significance for the Sami people, the region’s indigenous inhabitants. In warmer months, lakes invite picnics; in winter, they disappear under the snowfall unless a blizzard unveils them again. The climb begins at the Umba-Kandalaksha highway car park and ends there as well.
Leviathan has nothing to do with it
Regional tourism officials report a steady rise in visitors to Murmansk Oblast. In 2023, tourist flows grew by more than 20 percent, with expectations of a further gain in 2024. The coastal village of Teriberka, perched on the Barents Sea, plays a key role as a draw for travelers seeking the Arctic shoreline.
Interest in Teriberka surged after the 2014 film Leviathan, shot nearby, though local guides point out that other forces drive travel here. Artemy Shevashkevich, a guide with PONAeHALI, notes that many travelers came from China, drawn by a broader interest in the Arctic and by aurora tours that often lead visitors onward to Norway. Today, cinema-inspired curiosity remains, but the region’s appeal is built on a mix of scenery, history, and the chance to glimpse the Arctic Ocean.
Instantly – to the mountains
During the Soviet era, Murmansk’s tourist map centered on the Khibiny Mountains rather than Teriberka. The town of Kirovsk became a hub for Arctic skiing, surrounded by low, rugged peaks. The first urban slalom took place in 1936 on the northern slope of Mount Aykuaivenchorr, and by 1937 the sport had global attention with the participation of notable skiers. The first ski lift appeared in 1960, changing how visitors moved through the landscape.
Today there are two major ski domaines in Kirovsk: Bolshoi Vudyavr on the southern and northern slopes of Mount Aykuaivenchorr, and the peak itself, Kukisvumchorr, which stands at 1141 meters. Trails cater to different skill levels and are served by lifts. Freeride is gaining traction in the Khibiny, while the season stretches from late autumn to late spring, and sometimes into early summer when snow persists.
Cycling through the Khibiny ranges stays surprisingly mild, with temperatures rarely dropping to extreme lows. The real challenge comes from blizzards and winds, which are best avoided on the road. On clear days, the summit reveals an overwhelming beauty that can leave visitors speechless.
At midday, as daylight wanes, the panorama from Mount Aykuaivenchorr bursts with color. Clouds slide beneath the skyline, painting the city in silhouettes while the sun sinks, shifting from soft blues to deeper blues and from coral to orange. The Yayla restaurant at the summit invites warmth and a moment to gather before continuing the descent into the twilight.
Let’s move on to water procedures
Beyond skiing and snowboarding, locals highlight the value of winter activities. Snowshoeing, snowmobiling, and guided walks through the Maly Vudyavr valley supplement the trail network. A polar twist in the local menu of experiences is Arctic swimming, a pastime embraced in Lapland and now common in the Murmansk region.
Ice swimming emerged when rescue suits from Finnish rescue operations were repurposed to entertain tourists. Under supervision, visitors lie on their backs in a lake or in the bays around Kandalaksha, then drift and swim for short distances. The suit prevents hypothermia and keeps breathing manageable. It is not a solo activity; assistance and instruction are essential. The experience can be meditative and calming, though it may provoke nerves in the uninitiated. Those who persevere often find it deeply rewarding.
Newcomers should approach with care. The thrill comes with caution, and those who feel uncertain should ease into it rather than push too hard.
After skiing in Murmansk
When energy from mountain adventures wanes, relaxation awaits in hotel and sanatorium wellness areas such as Tirvas and Severnaya in Kirovsk. A broader cultural itinerary invites visitors to explore the region’s history, geology, and the living heritage of the Sami people, along with contemporary art collections curated by prominent figures and housed in Apatity near Kirovsk. The city embraces both past and present, bridging the ancient landscape with modern exhibitions.
An art-forward pulse runs through Apatity, where a major contemporary center offers rotating exhibitions and residencies. The gallery and medical facilities operate in a shared space, welcoming locals and visitors alike. A sculpture-filled entrance, glass atrium, and a nearby cafe serving oxygen-infused beverages create an unusual, memorable experience that blends culture, health, and landscape.
The newly opened Khibinarium at the Kola Science Center invites visitors to explore the history of mineral exploration in the Khibiny. Exhibits trace ore from apatite to nepheline, and onward to industrial uses in fertilizers, glass, and ceramics. The Apatite Museum in Kirovsk complements this story with a global collection, rooted in the region’s geology and the famous expeditions of scientists who unlocked valuable mineral deposits.
In villages that preserve Sami life, visitors can glimpse open-air reconstructions and listen to guides recount the challenges and joys of traditional living. Reindeer and dog sledding offer excitement and a sense of otherworldliness. It is a chance to imagine a Lapland-like landscape, where creamy fish soups, venison dishes, and blueberry desserts complete the experience.