Berlin Fashion Week, held twice yearly since 2007, concluded in the German capital. In 2024, the event lost its main sponsor, which meant the Mercedes-Benz name disappeared from the branding. Dutch and German media noted that this shift gave participating designers more space for personal expression. The week also ran on a different rhythm this year, coinciding with demonstrations abroad, following Copenhagen Week and preceding New York Week. Additionally, the fashion fair itself did not run in parallel with the runway shows as it had in past seasons.
More than 30 designers showcased their Autumn-Winter 2024 collections from February 5 to 8, presenting a spectrum from bold streetwear to avant-garde, deconstructed silhouettes that are not everyday wear. Yet amid the diverse offerings, several trends emerged that recur across seasons and translate well into everyday life.
Skin
Leather remains a recurring theme for multiple seasons. For autumn and winter, German designers present leather pieces that appeal not only to fans of motorcycle or edgy aesthetics but also to more conservative fashion lovers. Those seeking a softer look may opt for baked-milk leather raincoats from Kilian Kerner, while bolder tastes gravitate toward a reconstructed biker-jacket with exposed shoulders, oversized sleeves, and prominent patches. For the bright and seductive look, options such as a lace-up leather dress from Namilia or a leather-trimmed short jacket by Olivia Ballard offer striking alternatives.
Shoulder volume
The lingering influence of Balenciaga under Demna Gvasalia continues to haunt European runways, with designers leaning into exaggerated shoulder lines. Namilia presented its vivid jackets at Berlin Week, while the House of Bobkova offered bold 80s-inspired blouses featuring broad, pronounced shoulders.
Chocolate color
Brown took center stage this season, described by designers as the new black. The soft, delicious chocolate hue lends itself to vintage-inspired looks. Bobkova offered blouses and suits in deep chocolate tones, and William Fan, notable for wearable pieces in Berlin, paired soft brown blouses with sequined trousers. At Malaikaraiss, milk-chocolate jackets and coats completed the palette for the collection.
40s
In fashion today, designers push boundaries from openness to restrained elegance, with silhouettes that echo the 1940s. Voluminous puffed sleeves, A-line skirts, and high-waist, non-restrictive dresses defined many looks, with midi-length hems staying common. Material choices varied, including a lace dress by Marcel Ostertag that embraced a translucent, 40s-inspired silhouette, pushing the line between vulnerability and sophistication.
Tartan
Scottish checks returned as a dominant trend, appearing across numerous collections. The colorways ranged from soft grays to pinks in Anja Gockel’s coats, paired with a cropped bomber jacket that balanced with an ultra-short Olivia Ballard skirt. Plaids also anchored the conservative black-and-white aesthetics offered by William Fan, proving plaid’s versatility beyond seasonal novelty.
In summary, Berlin Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2024 reflected a mix of heritage tones and forward-thinking shapes. Leather remains a cornerstone, while bold shoulders, chocolate hues, vintage-inspired 40s lines, and plaid patterns offer wearable paths through a season that values both nostalgia and audacity. The result is a collection of looks that can translate from the runway to real-world wardrobes, emphasizing craft, attitude, and practicality for a modern audience in North America and beyond. [Source: European fashion press coverage, multiple agencies].