In February, the fashion calendar buzzed with the annual thrill of the Big Four Autumn-Winter 2024 Week, centered in New York with companion shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Numerous major American houses showcased their latest lines, from Tommy Hilfiger returning to the traditional schedule after a two-year hiatus to names such as Helmut Lang, Prabal Gurung, and Carolina Herrera. Despite the high-profile roster, overall sales for American brands during the week remained soft; Marc Jacobs teased his collection ahead of its official debut, Ralph Lauren faced a quieter presence, and Tom Ford stepped back from active fashion design. [Attribution: industry recap]
Yet the absence of some retail giants did not dampen the flow of trends for autumn and winter 2024. Notable directions included office-inspired tailoring, the revival of bows, bold reds, fur accents, and a pronounced embrace of translucent materials. [Attribution: runway analysis]
Office Style
Catwalk interpretations of office suits—pants and skirts—demonstrated how a traditionally conservative wardrobe can become unexpectedly versatile. Neutral plaid patterns in gray, glencheck, or black-and-white schemes read as strong on their own. By shortening skirts as seen in Carolina Herrera’s proposals or layering a black hoodie beneath a gray wool top, as Michael Kors suggested, the look becomes more vibrant and approachable. [Attribution: designer showcases]
Another option caters to fans of quiet luxury, an aesthetic championed by Tommy Hilfiger in New York. A glencheck three-piece trouser suit paired with a roomy jacket and wide legs offered a refined yet relaxed silhouette. [Attribution: collection notes]
And a Bow on the Side
Bows remained a romantic touch across wardrobes and continued to trend. House silhouettes such as Retrofête and several predecessors highlighted bows on blouses as suitable for business contexts, while outside the office they appeared as oversized features on tops and skirts, even serving as hair accents from brands like Coach. [Attribution: stylistic overview]
On the NYFW catwalks this year, bows were characteristically imperfect, slightly disheveled, and often left partially open. In some looks, the dress itself carried a bow-shaped bodice, as demonstrated by Jason Wu. [Attribution: collection review]
Radical Red
Red dominated many collections, ranging from deep wine tones to vibrant burgundy and orange hues. Designers urged wearers to embrace red in autumn and winter, whether in a head-to-toe statement or as a strategic accent. For instance, red trousers appeared in Tommy Hilfiger’s lineup, while Jason Wu offered a lean red knit as a standout piece. The color choice provided a confident presence without overwhelming the ensemble. [Attribution: color trend notes]
Multicolored Fur
Influences echoing TikTok aesthetics of Slavic chic and mob-wives surfaced in New York, with fur coats appearing across a spectrum of styles and textures. Natural fur, ostrich feather details, and bold colorways such as red, pink, and white offered contrasts against black looks from houses like Michael Kors or vivid hues from Prabal Gurung. Fur ensembles ranged from full coats to 70s-inspired coats with oversized collars, paired with lace dresses and heels to complete the bold mood. [Attribution: fur trend roundup]
Transparency
Translucent fabrics continued to make a statement, with sheer blouses and dresses designed to intrigue. Practical reflection remains essential, so designers suggested layering or opting for thicker striped dresses that provide coverage while preserving the allure of a sheer silhouette. This balance ensures the trend remains wearable for many occasions. [Attribution: fabric trends]