Kundyubki with ear or dried mushrooms stands out as a unique Lent option for anyone seeking culinary variety. Vlad Piskunov, a Russian cuisine historian and the brand chef of Matryoshka, shared his favored lean version with socialbites.ca.
“One of my go-to lean dishes is kundyubki with ear or dried mushrooms,” the chef said.
To make it, gather dried mushrooms, half an onion, a clove of garlic, two thirds of a cup of barley or round rice, 300 g of wheat flour, two tablespoons of red rye malt, vegetable oil, fresh parsley, and salt.
Rinse the mushrooms thoroughly under running water, then rinse again with fresh water. Let them sit for about an hour to rehydrate. If the mushrooms come from a new harvest and remain slightly damp, a long cook may not yield the best texture. When making kundyubki in spring, a brief boil can soften the pieces, the chef notes.
Drain the mushrooms, strain the soaking liquid, and finely chop them. Sauté the mushrooms with the finely chopped onion and garlic in oil, while the pre-soaked barley or rice boils in salted water.
“Cook with the lid on and do not drain the cooking water. The aim is a sticky porridge that helps bind the filling nicely.”
Combine the hot porridge with the mushrooms and onions. In a separate bowl, mix the flour with the malt, add the vegetable oil, then pour in the slightly cooled boiling water and knead into a smooth dough.
“Be sure to let the dough cool, wrap it in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for an hour to rest and mature,” the chef advises.
Roll the dough into a thin sheet, cut it into small squares, and place a spoonful of filling on each square. Transfer the parcels to a baking dish and bake in a preheated oven at 200 C for about 20 minutes until the kundyubki take on a light brown color. Meanwhile, boil the soaking water and pour a small amount of the mushroom infusion into the dish so just the bottom is covered by 5 to 7 mm. Cover and simmer over medium heat for roughly 10 minutes until the liquid evaporates and the dough absorbs the remaining moisture.
“In truth, kundyubki are steamed with the mushroom juice. The critical moment comes when most of the liquid has disappeared; if it dries too much, the parcels may fry or burn, which would ruin the dish. A glass lid helps monitor the progress so nothing scorches,” Piskunov explains.
Nearby notes mention a long tradition of poached eggs and their precise preparation as a comforting counterpoint to this dish.