They depart the stunning Torngat National Park, sailing north for four days toward Churchill on Hudson Bay.
CHURCHILL, BELUGAS PARADISE |
On the second day, the voyage threads its way between towering icebergs as a crisp wind sweeps the deck. The Arctic panorama is unmistakable, a reminder of how the Arctic’s cooling power shapes the Northern Hemisphere. Yet the planet’s natural air conditioning is faltering, and the consequences are visible in hotter summers and stifling heat across Canada and the United States.
Schools of capelin dart beneath the surface, serving as a staple for belugas in this northern feast.
That contrast colors the journey: a deep gratitude for witnessing such majesty paired with a sober awareness that Arctic ice is slipping away. By 2035, even the most pessimistic forecasts suggest the current conditions could vanish, altering this region forever.
surrounded by ice |
If common sense remains, the issue of global warming must be treated as urgent. The scientific community has warned for decades, but responses from society have been slow and uneven.
The polar bear roams closer to the boat.
Weeks into the expedition, there has been little human presence in this remote landscape. The question remains: why protect such a place?
Schools of capelin again frame the scene as food for belugas.
Creating marine protected areas in frozen zones becomes essential as forecasts point to growing shipping routes, mining interests, and oil exploration in the decades ahead as ice retreats. More people, more towns, and more activity are on the horizon, bringing with them rising temperatures and mounting ecological pressures.
The floating ice fronts in Hudson Bay are a constant, stark reminder of the environment that must be crossed.
Personally, the author believes Arctic animals deserve protection from the surge of demand. Belugas, killer whales, and walruses should not bear the brunt of exploitation. The animal trade involving captive polar species should not be justified by education or research alone.
surrounded by ice
The next morning, Churchill Bay unfurls with a chorus of belugas and white whales skimming the brown-tinted waters. They gather in shallow zones to breed and evade their main predator, killer whales. In Hudson Bay, belugas concentrate around vast schools of capelin, their primary sustenance. At dawn, the pier offers a view of the Northern Lights while belugas rest near the surface, making this a magical moment of the voyage.
Belugas and Northern Lights in Churchill
Churchill is famed as the polar bear capital, thanks to its high density of these giants. Visitors are advised to move along the main streets in small groups, and Churchill has earned a reputation as a premier destination for polar bear and beluga viewing. The local economy thrives on nature-based tourism centered on bears and whales.
Off Hudson Bay, bears appear near the vessel, swimming and circling the hull. It challenges the idea of the polar bear as a strictly land-based animal, since these bears swim long distances and can dive effectively. A small group is spotted miles from shore, a testament to the region’s wild, open character.
James Bay marks the next stop, a vast indentation roughly 450 kilometers long and 220 wide, south of the Hudson, home to numerous islands. Little is known about how this place became submerged. The sense of discovery is invigorating, diving into an area that may have never been explored before. James Bay was buried under glaciers and perpetual ice until around 8,000 years ago, so no modern habitat was expected to survive here.
With little light and frigid conditions, marine life options are limited. As the ice age gave way to thaw, the seas separated and sunlight began to reach the surface. The Cree, the first people to inhabit this region, arrived as the climate warmed and the waters opened.
Northern Lights.
James Bay presents tough conditions: icy water, near-zero visibility, and swirling brown meltwater from rivers and peat bogs. The boreal forest, the second-largest forest on the planet after the Amazon, shapes the landscape. Decomposition in these peatlands stores vast amounts of carbon, and the Arctic would face a climate catastrophe if that carbon were released. Protecting these peatlands and coastal zones is a priority in the effort to slow global warming.
The Arctic represents a fragile balance. Establishing marine protected areas in frozen regions becomes essential to prevent ecological disaster. Difficult diving conditions persist: waves, icy waters, and extremely limited visibility.