Comparing different models makes sense when focusing on practical parameters like ground clearance or trunk volume. Equipment levels vary with configuration: a top trim Duster isn’t spare, while a basic Qashqa i may not feel luxurious either.
Engine power alone is less telling today. Transmission type often drives real-world dynamics more than horsepower and torque, especially under strict emissions rules. A 125 hp variant doesn’t feel noticeably stronger than 115 hp in many everyday conditions.
Structural repetition is common. Most cars share a unibody design with MacPherson struts in the front. All-wheel-drive systems may use an automatically coupled rear axle. A higher ride height, limited rear visibility, and the presence of parking sensors and rear cameras help justify the emphasis on those convenience features.
A matter of taste
Ergonomics are felt differently by individuals of different builds. What suits a tall, slim driver might be uncomfortable for someone else. Dashboard styling is a matter of personal preference. Some prefer cooler blue tones, others do not mind at all. And for many, as long as the vehicle runs smoothly, aesthetics matter less.
Durability inside the cabin varies too. Many brands have used cheaper materials in lower-priced models, so items like the steering wheel cover may wear out around 100,000 km and seats can lose their shape. Even widely regarded models like the Toyota RAV4 show this trend in the budget segment.
Suspension wear depends on settings; stiffer setups may feel more capable at higher speeds but can wear components sooner. Today’s drivetrains are broadly similar across brands. On smooth asphalt, 100,000 km is often manageable. On rougher roads, components such as stabilizer bars, bushings, wheel bearings, and the steering rack become wear items sooner.
When selecting a secondary residence, corrosion resistance and the long-term durability of major units are paramount. Differences here can be substantial.
They rust differently.
Comparative automotive corrosion studies are scarce. Observations suggest modern European cars often resist corrosion a bit better than many Japanese makes, but the bottom and internal cavities still suffer if anti-corrosion measures are light. Premium brands tend to invest more in this area.
- Japanese manufacturers typically use softer topcoats; they scratch easily and the paint can flake. Yet their primers tend to be robust, and where paint has worn, the primer may still resist rust for a long time.
- European cars often feature a thicker, tougher protective layer that withstands external conditions more effectively.
- Korean makes resemble Japanese models in many respects.
- Budget Chinese models from a decade ago sometimes showed faster rusting, sometimes even without significant mechanical damage beforehand.
The appearance of rust on typical locations such as thresholds, arches, hood edges, and lower doors depends heavily on how the car is used. Winter conditions with regular salt exposure accelerate paint deterioration, making even similarly driven cars diverge in condition.
Guidance: inspect the body for the best overall condition rather than concentrating on mileage alone, especially since many cars have high secondary-market use with reduced actual mileage on the odometer.
It is also useful to note that the main units are best understood through examples drawn from popular used crossovers priced under a typical million rubles in this discussion.
WHAT BETTER NOT TO TAKE
For buyers working with a tight budget, selecting a used model requires estimating ownership costs. The overall condition matters most, but several additional factors are worth consideration.
1. Favor models with broad popularity — spare parts are easier to find, there are many non-original alternatives, and parts costs tend to be lower.
2. Avoid transmissions that are costly to repair — CVTs and dual-clutch automatics generally have shorter service lives and may be harder to sell after 100,000 miles.
3. Steer clear of engines with known vulnerabilities and systemic issues such as weak timing chains, soot buildup, or fragile fuel systems; these can make maintenance and repairs ruinously expensive. Petrol engines are preferred for reliability.
4. Taxi and car-sharing vehicles often sell cheaper but carry higher risk of undisclosed wear and tear. An engine with 300,000–400,000 km can still be a gamble in this segment.
5. Air suspension after 100,000 km can require costly repairs; Start-Stop systems may save fuel but can shorten engine life. Upgrading lighting to LED can cost more than it saves in bulbs, though LEDs do last longer.
In short, fewer luxury features generally translate to easier and cheaper maintenance.
Paint Thickness (LCP) on some models
- Chevrolet Captiva (2005-2015) 115–140 µm
- Ford Kuga (2008-2014) 110–130 µm
- Hyundai ix35 (2010-2015) 105–125 µm
- Hyundai Creta (2016–present) 90–120 µm
- Kia Sportage (2015–present) 100–135 µm
- Mazda CX-5 (2012-2017) 100–120 µm
- Mitsubishi ASX (2011–present) 75–110 µm
- Nissan Qashqai (2013–present) 100–120 µm
- Renault Duster (2011–present) 130–165 µm
- Skoda Yeti (2009-2015) 140–180 µm
- Toyota RAV4 (2012-2019) 115–140 µm
- VW Tiguan (2008-2016) 190–220 µm
The most affordable crossovers, priced around 100–300 thousand rubles, still represent a viable option for practical use. This guide suggests focusing on overall condition and expected ownership costs rather than chasing the cheapest initial price. Driving insights can be found via dedicated automotive channels in their respective communities. — Source: Automotive Journal