How to choose a good used crossover: driving instructions

It is useful to compare different models with each other only in terms of some parameters, for example, the amount of ground clearance and the volume of the trunk. The equipment depends too much on the configuration: the top-class Duster is by no means ascetic and the “basic” Qashqai will not impress with luxury.

It’s a bit pointless to look at the power of the engines – the dynamics now depend more on the type of transmission than on horsepower and Newton meters, strangled by environmental standards. Advantage 125 hp over 115 hp hard to feel.

The structures are very similar. Bearing body, for all “MacPherson”. The four-wheel drive has an automatically coupled rear axle. High landing, limited rear view, which partly justifies the idea of ​​parking sensors and rear view cameras.

A matter of taste

Ergonomics are perceived differently by people of different builds – where it is useful for tall and thin people, it can be uncomfortable for everyone. Dashboard styling is a matter of personal preference. Some don’t like “bluish” shades, others do. The third doesn’t matter, as long as it runs and doesn’t break.

As for the durability of the interior, all manufacturers have long used cheap materials on cheap models. And therefore, for everyone, with 100 thousand km, the steering wheel cover wears out, the driver’s seat loses its shape. Even Toyota RAV4 is the informal leader of the “low-cost” segment.

Suspension wear depends in part on the settings – on a stiffer one it is expected to go faster. In general, the source of running gear elements is now about the same for everyone. When driving on smooth asphalt, 100 thousand km withstand everything. And when riding on graders, not only stabilizer bars and bushings, but also wheel bearings with a steering rack become consumables.

When choosing a secondary housing, the most important guidelines are the corrosion resistance of the body and the resource of the main units. Here the differences can be significant.

They rust differently.

There are no comparative studies on automotive corrosion. From what we see, modern European cars are slightly more “stainless” than Japanese ones. However, this does not apply to the bottom and internal cavities – everyone saves on anti-corrosion, except premium brands.

• Japanese manufacturers use softer varnish and paint – the varnish is scratched very easily, the paint is prone to crumbling. But the primer is quite hard and resistant. Often in areas where a bit of paint has fallen off, but the primer will last for years – no rust.
• In “Europeans”, as a rule, the LCP layer is thicker and harder in itself, it tolerates external influences better.
• “Koreans” are close to “Japanese”.
• The “Chinese” on budget models from ten years ago have their own approach – they rust quickly, sometimes they do not need mechanical damage for this.

The appearance of rust in typical places (thresholds, arches, hood edge, bottom of doors) is highly dependent on the nature of the operation. In winter, with constant sandblasting with salts, the paintwork degrades faster. Therefore, even on equal runs, the condition of the two bodies can be significantly different.

Advice: look for the bodywork in best condition, don’t pay much attention to the mileage quoted – especially since it has been run on the secondary in at least half of the cars.

As for the main units, they are discussed in detail using the example of the most popular used crossovers not exceeding a million rubles in this publication.

WHAT BETTER NOT TO TAKE

With a limited income, it is wise to choose a used model estimate the expected cost of ownership Yes, it largely depends on the general condition of the machine, but it is useful to consider other factors.

a. It is better to choose from the most popular models – the shortage of spare parts affects them less, there are many non-original analogues, and the spare parts themselves are usually cheaper.

2. Avoid transmissions that are the most expensive to repair – CVTs and robots. Their resource is usually more modest than that of the “pen” and classic machines. And with trips over 100,000 miles, cars with CVTs and robots are harder to sell.

3. Avoid structurally complex engines that have identified vulnerabilities and systemic disorders: weak timing chains, tendency to build up soot, overly fragile fuel equipment. Prevention and repair of all this is often disastrous. Petrol extractors are preferred.

four. Taxi and car-sharing cars are often sold much cheaper than privately owned cars. There is no benefit here, as you have to replace anything that has been brought to a dead state. And it is not a fact that an engine with a mileage of 300-400 thousand km will last.

5. Air suspension after 100,000 km or even earlier requires expensive repairs. The Start-Stop system saves fuel (barely noticeable), but shortens the life of the engine. LED optics shine better than halogen optics, but it will milk the wallet if you change them.

The fewer luxurious elements in the car, the easier and cheaper it is to maintain.

The cheapest crossovers (for 100-300 thousand rubles): garbage, but on the way.