Summer is approaching and okroshka becomes the cornerstone of gastronomy discussions on the Internet. Which is right: kvass or kefir? Do I need to add mustard or is horseradish better, or does everyone decide for himself and put them on a separate plate? It seems that sometimes people are ready to find out whose recipe is the most authentic and correct, almost to the point of a fight. In today’s article, we want to reveal the essence of such recipes and explain who is right in the end.
Okroshka is a traditional Russian soup that has been enjoyed for centuries. It should be understood that the soups themselves are basically very ancient dishes. Hand in hand, we agree that there are no incredible secrets in the technology of cooking vegetables in water or broth, which is why people have been doing this since they learned to heat food. A little after frying, but not by much. Therefore, basically all the soups that form the basis of the national gastronomy were invented even before the name was given. Okroshka has a slightly later history, because the technology is different: not boiling, but making a cold soup based on a drink. Its history is believed to date back to the 9th century, when it was first defeated in Russia. Not from the turn of the century, but also quite a long time ago. Of course, there was no mention of sausage or eggs, they were quite simple stews. This is “kvass with onions” – in fact, the same definition of okroshka, only ancient and primitive.
Such a strict age of the soup itself easily helps to answer the question of what is right: on kvass or kefir. Kefir was invented only at the beginning of the 20th century, so the answer is: kvass. But the trick is that there is nothing “right” in the world of historical gastronomy. Nationwide recipes without a specific author and creation date cannot have a single correct variation. After all, the filling of the dish will largely depend on the region, culture, habits and traditions in the family. There are just some basics. Okroshka is a cold soup based on sour kvass and water with finely chopped vegetables. The addition of eggs and meat came later, so they’re really optional anyway. Everything else is up to the chef’s taste.
An interesting question: why did okroshka become so popular in our culture? It’s all about kvass again.
Now, perhaps it’s just perceived as an alternative to lemonade: I’ll drink it if you want, or maybe it’s better to drink cola or juice. But previously kvass was one of the staples of the diet of the Slavs. It was believed that it should be at home every day, often in various variations. They made both light and dark fruit and berry kvass. It’s all about the nutritional value, variability and relatively easy storage of kvass. Therefore, it was associated not only with drinks, but also with food. An easy option was to crumble pieces of bread instead of vegetables and satisfy your hunger. According to legend, the okroshka got its first performance on the Volga, where the shippers received cold kvass and dried cockroaches for hard work. The fish was dry and salty so they started dipping it into a drink. And then there were other recipes. Or maybe they appeared in several places at once. In general, cold soups are typical for many national cuisines, because they are easy to carry with you, you do not have to cook, which is not always possible on the road, and you do not have to wait long: you can use leftovers as ingredients.
Pre-revolutionary cookbooks talk about recipes for both brine and sour soup (we are talking about not soup, but also a cold carbonated alcoholic beverage), at the same time they began to add egg yolk puree and sour cream to give it a more creamy taste. delicate taste. Therefore, later, in the second half of the 20th century, okroshka on kefir was considered quite edible and familiar almost instantly.
The popularity of okroshka did not really decrease during the Soviet era, when it became the main summer dish in many families. It was considered a simple and inexpensive dish that could be made from any material available, which was of course extremely important in times of famine.
Modern restaurants have a greater variety of food products, so they have further expanded the possible assortment of this summer soup. Vegan versions come out without meat or with seitan, somewhere they use kombucha instead of kvass, and in some places they cook with beer for interest. It is served with ice, leaves or in front of the guest like a small performance. Even those who are not fans of this soup indifferently begin to study different versions and look for their own.
The history of okroshka in general is rich and interesting. Starting with a simple kvass and vegetable soup, it has become a favorite dish in Russia and beyond. Whether you prefer with or without meat, okroshka is a delicious and unifying annual tradition that has been going on for centuries and will continue into the future.
The author expresses his personal opinion, which may not coincide with the editors’ position.