After more than three decades in the ham trade and over 35,000 hand-cut hams, master cutter Pedro Seco is well known among businessmen, politicians, judges, and ham enthusiasts who follow his work. What makes a Christmas ham special? Be wary when buying an acorn-fed Iberico that weighs less than seven kilos, and beware of prices that dip between 250 and 500 euros per kilo.
“I started as a waiter in restaurants, and one day I chose to make this my career,” explains the Salamanca native, who shares his expertise with major Iberian producers such as Carrasco. For a perfect pairing with ham, Seco recommends a good champagne or cava. He also emphasizes that ham should come in chunks and be vacuum-packed, and it should be consumed within two months to preserve its distinctive qualities.
What should you pay attention to?
Quality standards for Iberian meat, including ham, shoulder, and loin, require each Iberian ham to carry one of four identification seals: black for 100% Iberian acorn-fed ham; red for acorn-fed Iberian ham from animals classified as 75% or 50% Iberian; and green for cebo de campo Iberian ham at 100%, 75%, or 50% levels. These seals help consumers distinguish blends and origins at a glance.
In this guidance, Seco offers insight into Iberian acorn-fed ham. The pigs spend two years foraging on leafy pastures dotted with oaks and cork oaks to feed on acorns, chestnuts, wild berries, roots, mushrooms, aromatic plants, and small insects. During Montanera, they may consume about twelve kilos of acorns daily and walk as much as fourteen kilometers.
Black and red labeled Iberian acorn-fed ham should display a black hoof, a slender body, and a bright exterior with a thin layer of fat that can appear slightly glossy. The outer color tends to take on a rusty, worn look over time.
Ham color matters. It should present a clean, vivid red with a pinkish tone in the fat.
Heat
Serve ham at about 22 degrees Celsius to allow the healthy fat to melt nicely. Throughout their development, pigs accumulate polyphenols, tocopherols, and other natural antioxidants in their fat tissue. “These animals are muscular, with slender yet sturdy legs and black hooves,” notes Pedro Seco.
The art of cutting
Once the piece is placed in the ham stand, the crust is removed with the hoof pointing downward. At home, begin from the narrow, tougher section, typically positioned to maximize flavor and aroma. Thin slices should be roughly the thickness of a sheet of paper, about 5 centimeters in length and around 5 grams, so each bite releases a delicate, premium sensation. A recommended approach is to trim away any crust or excess fat until roughly a quarter of the piece is clean. Follow a straight line from hoof to tip and leave one to two inches clear beneath the cut to keep crust or yellow fat off the slice. Cut the ham slices as horizontally as possible.
Preserve ham after opening
To cover and protect the ham, clean four fingers on each side and remove the husk carefully. It is important to plan for storage so that the ham remains usable. If stored properly, portions can be kept for later use, and bone remnants can be frozen to flavor stews throughout the year.
How to pair ham
Seco’s advice is simple: pair the ham with an everyday bread—preferably a rustic, crusty loaf. This Iberian bread matches well with any drink: champagne, cava, red or white wine, sherry, sake, or even gin and tonic, especially if the ham is from Salamanca where the pork tends to read as sweeter than hams from other regions.
[Citation: Pedro Seco and associated Iberian ham guidelines]