When spider crab season wraps up in Galicia, the renowned chef Manuel Costiña, owner of Costiña Retreat in Santa Comba, takes pride in securing the latest catches from the Atlantic’s cold depths. This giant crustacean is celebrated for its high protein content and healthy polyunsaturated fats, making it a welcome addition to diets that aim to support heart health. Rich in minerals and vitamins, it delivers satisfying bites with very modest calories and exceptional flavor.
Fishing continues through November, and live spiders are best prepared with sea water if possible. The texture and flavor reveal themselves through each bite, while the spider crab’s five pairs of long, hairy legs contribute to its distinctive appearance. In markets and restaurants, many offerings are labeled as coming from local sailors or Galician foragers, occasionally from French sources. The Galicia supply is often still darker and more textured, sometimes with a fine coat of hairs, contrasting with outer shells that appear lighter and hair-free.
“A four-pound specimen should be about three years old,” remarks a Galician chef from Portocubelo. The landscape of shellfish gathering has faced its own trials, including the long shadow of environmental incidents along the coast. Yet the spider crab remains a prized quarry from the rugged Costa da Morte, pursued with patience and respect by dedicated divers and harvesters.
Costiña emphasizes a simple preference that mirrors many locals: the male crab is favored for its leaner, more nuanced flavor compared with the eggs-bearing females. The chef notes that those who prefer females value the richness of the eggs, while he favors the males, especially when they exceed two kilos and are caught during the prime months of January, February, and March. Over a career spanning four decades, he has prepared more than 10,000 crabs and has never kept them in a refrigerator. Shellfish should be opened and consumed promptly to prevent oxidation, and experts advise that much of the crab served in the region now comes from outside Galicia or from foragers.
“The first spider crab I cooked was at sixteen,” the chef recalls as he handles the creature with care before presenting it in his renowned restaurant, where a fifteen-course tasting menu can fetch around 200 euros. The dining room features seven tables for 28 guests, supported by a team of 14. The journey of a meal begins in the back room and continues through a cellar, lounge, and dining area where fine cigars and premium spirits, including select Macallan whiskies, provide a richly atmospheric backdrop.
More than 80 years of history
Manuel Costiña grew up in the family dining room in Santa Comba, a town with about 10,000 residents and a rural economy shaped by cattle and agriculture. He describes a childhood anchored in Galician classics like octopus, tripe, beef roasts, salmon, cutlets, stews, and hearty dishes that defined his palate.
Opened in 1939 on a hillside, the family business earned the nickname “los costiña.” Over time they relocated to a larger venue at the town’s edge, and the name evolved to Retiro da Costiña. This restaurant became a Galician landmark, reinforcing its Michelin recognition that his mother helped secure. The 16-dish tasting menu, offered without pairing, remains a memorable experience for visitors.
Built around a philosophy of pure, ingredient-driven cooking, Costiña continues to collaborate with other culinary masters who enjoy traveling to share ideas and to welcome acclaimed guests. Esteemed figures and notable fans have grown from this circle, reflecting a broader appreciation for high-quality local products.
“What we love here is welcoming everyone who walks through the door,” Costiña says, signaling an ongoing evolution for the business. Plans include opening seven luxury villas a short drive from the restaurant, inviting distinguished guests to a full-service stay. A new orchard and camellia forest will be planted nearby, and the property will feature gastronomic breakfasts with house-made bread, local butter, Silleda cheeses, and a vibrant olive oil from the region.
For guests seeking an integrated wellness experience, Costiña will offer accommodations paired with wellness therapies and nutrition guidance curated by Ana Mancebo, a leading national expert in the field.