On 24-25 November, Moscow hosted the first Russian Wine Forum. This is the largest thematic event in the country, the organizers of which plan to hold it annually. The Forum aims to bring together all market participants – producers, investors, distributors, regulators, experts and consumers – and create an ecosystem for the wine industry in Russia. Thus, the event can become an effective tool for the development of Russian viticulture and winemaking, revive its export potential and help create a positive image of domestic wine.
Within the framework of the forum, the largest Russian airline “Aeroflot” held a tasting of “Wine on it”. Leading Russian sommeliers and experts tasted nearly 50 local wines, including white and red wines, as well as sparkling and fortified wines. Samples for tasting were selected by sommelier Arthur Sargsyan, one of the country’s leading independent wine experts. The tasting was attended by 12 well-known professionals of the wine industry, including Vlada Lesnichenko, author of more than 20 wine lists of Russian restaurants and co-founder of the Russian Wine Award, Sergey Aksenovsky, head sommelier of the Maison Dellos restaurant house. Vladimir Kosenko, director of WineState sommelier school and certificate holder of the international sommelier association (ASI), and others.
It is noteworthy that during the tasting, the effect of the human factor on the results is eliminated, thanks to a special methodology. In addition, each sample was tasted from two different glasses – the classic and those approved at Aeroflot. Thus, the taste qualities of the wines received an objective and reliable assessment by the participants. Samples that receive the best reviews from the expert group may appear at the airline as early as next year. Three representatives from each category were selected according to the tasting results.
“As the largest Russian air carrier and the business card of our country, Aeroflot traditionally supports the domestic manufacturer. We are proud to be the first to present the finest and most outstanding examples of Russian winemaking on board. “We hope passengers will soon be able to appreciate the innovations in the Aeroflot wine list,” said Andrey Chikhanchin, First Deputy Director General for Trade and Finance, PJSC Aeroflot.
Due to the emergence of a significant number of valuable Russian wines on the market in recent years, the company decided to support domestic producers. The government is also making progress in this area. Authorities are trying every possible way to support the industry and give it the attention it deserves. The Russian Wine Forum is the main proof of this.
“The choice of Russian wines is quite wide – not just two or three wine houses. We have a large number of manufacturers, distributors, sommeliers and other experts for whom such a large-scale event is held. We also tasted Russian wines as part of the forum to introduce the best to our passengers in the future.”
Now Aeroflot offers four types of wine, two red and two white, to first-class passengers in accordance with the standard of service. The airline plans to replace one red and one white with Russian-made wines. Samples from the “sparkling” and “fortified” categories were also included in the tasting – perhaps Aeroflot passengers will be able to try them at the airline next year.
“After all, sweeter wine was always consumed in our country. And sometimes it’s nicer to feel the sweet taste of fortified sweet wine on board. Therefore, Aeroflot will most likely introduce such an innovation. But everything will depend on the results of the tastings,” he said.
“I personally love port wine and was always pleased when they poured it in business class because it’s so delicious. I think there should be such a drink on board. First, there are people who always drink fortified wine instead of regular wine. Secondly, port wine has a rich flavor, high alcohol and sugar. “Due to these characteristics, it loses less flavor at height than traditional wine,” said Vladislav Markin, wine expert and chairman of the external communication committee of the Russian Sommelier Association.
arguing about pleasures
Experts devoted a significant part of the event to discussing the difference in taste sensations on the ground and in the sky, which may also depend on the quality and shape of the glasses. Therefore, as mentioned earlier, during the tasting the sommelier offered to try each sample from two different glasses.
“The estimates were based on samples in glasses offered at Aeroflot. These are not professional glasses in which bright aromatics are felt. The task of the experts was precisely to identify the wines that showed themselves best in glasses to be served on the airline,” he said.
Sommeliers also had to take into account that at an altitude of several kilometers, taste sensations change – refined wines can look flat and rich wines begin to look softer. There are also other nuances:
“Wine doesn’t always taste good on high. We may like more acidic and dry wines, for example, from the category “extra brut”, “brut zero” and others, but due to pressure on the plane, the flavors change and such wines become simpler, flatter and very sour. Sargsyan explained.
“I recently flew with an airline and they spilled champagne that seemed very old to me. At the same time, although he was definitely young, there was a feeling that he had left himself behind. If you try it on the ground, it will definitely have a normal fresh taste, ”said Vladislav Markin from his experience.
The expert also noted that the consumer can refuse a certain type of wine on board, knowing how it tastes on the ground. Traditionally, Argentine malbec is never drunk as it looks too full. But at altitude, this wine can feel quite different. It would be great to show how the taste of each wine changes in onboard wine lists, because buyers work differently, Markin said.
“As far as I remember, there was already a double tasting in the world. Paolo Basso, one of the best sommeliers in the world, tasted in the same club and with the same samples, first on the ground and then on high. Then the estimates were compared and they turned out to be very different. Basically, many of the wines on board lacked intensity in taste,” the experts added.
As Andrei Chikhanchin noted, this moment is not only about wine, but also about food. That’s why the airline has its own expert group that tastes new dishes at least quarterly. Tastings were previously held both on the ground and in the sky, but now, thanks to the team already having a lot of experience, experts have a rough understanding of which dish will behave and taste on board.
“They work the same way in terms of taste perception of food, as buyers are slightly spoiled for wine. Therefore, dishes may have slightly more pronounced sauces, brighter heat treatment. It is clear that it would be less advantageous for a couple to feel any embroidery. Therefore, I think it is possible to add more vegetables to in-flight meals that take advantage of their various textures,” said Vladislav Markin.
In general, as the expert noted, Aeroflot has chosen the right path for Russian wines. According to him, this is how a flight with a Russian airline gradually turns into a real local experience – you drink local wine, maybe some traditional dishes will be added later. This will be of particular interest to foreign viewers.
“It is better to do this than to prepare an Asian menu and pour Portuguese wines. Everyone would have a question, what would it be? Another thing is that probably the customer should have a choice. If a traveler is still skeptical about Russian wine, he should still be offered something else. It should be an alternative, like with wine lists in restaurants,” added Markin.
The rise of domestic winemaking
In general, market experts welcome the attempts of companies to cooperate with Russian winemakers.
“There will be many such projects, because the interest in Russian winemaking is growing every year. And considering that everyone is approaching this very professionally, we are seeing quite serious changes. That’s why I welcome the step taken by Aeroflot and are ready to support it.”
According to Vladislav Markin, if we all support our winemakers and engage in some kind of dialogue, it will be beneficial for everyone. We will buy better quality wines from our fellow countrymen who speak the same language and understand them. And winemakers will understand our demand for price, taste and variety.
“The industry is developing, there are more and more quality wines. Previously, I was skeptical about tasting Russian wines, because they were often uninteresting, only a few bright “stars”. And now you come to my taste and write everything down – you like, you like. Only 10% of not-so-successful examples remain, so it’s good to see such clear progress,” Markin summed up.