— How did the idea for your own original exhibition come about?
“I’ve been working on this for a long time.” I have a journalism degree, I always want to expand my limits. Not only to be a person who acts as an intermediary between the fashion industry and readers, but also to somehow shake the Russian market in the necessary direction. Because we are used to being largely dependent on Western brands.
— Who was the favorite among the brands that left the Russian market?
— If we talk about the luxury segment, one of my favorite brands is Alaia. It is difficult for me to find a brand that will fully meet all the criteria that are important to me. The story of the creation of the show began precisely when I encountered problems in clothing production and realized: we cannot make what we need. We do not have the infrastructure that our Western colleagues have. And this applies to the entire production cycle, from design to packaging. I want to shake up this market, find out what’s going on inside it. Well, something that costs 2 thousand rubles cannot cost 20 thousand.
– Under what conditions can he do it?
— A jacket can cost 20 thousand rubles if the brand invests in marketing, improves quality and service. But we don’t have that. Moreover, the money the brand earns is spent on personnel training, service, etc. It does not go to expenses. For them it is just income. That’s the problem.
– But that’s not all.
– Definitely! We are having a very difficult time finding staff with good fabrics in the field of tailoring. To bring materials from Italy and France, you have to pay through the nose for delivery – this is absolutely not profitable. And the materials offered in our market today are not enough to provide diversification of everything. And this is especially evident in underwear: all bras are similar to each other with the same lace. From where? Because we have nothing else. If we take into account China, for example, high-quality lace will have to wait 3-4 months. In addition, you can often order 2.5 thousand meters of fabric or 10 thousand meters of fabric. In the beginning, many brands cannot cope with this.
– What should we do?
— Making something of quality is difficult and expensive. And we are completely dependent on friendly countries. For example, about denim, it’s from Turkey because we don’t have factories that make denim well. All these years, our Western colleagues have been developing this segment, but we want to do something unrealistic in a year. At the same time, some brands do not think at all about their approach to buyers. I recently went to the boutique of a Russian brand to buy a gift. I spent more than 35 thousand rubles and asked for a gift package. But they didn’t have it; They stuffed everything into a bag for me. Therefore, if we want to develop our industry, we need to be more honest and loyal.
— Do you plan to convey all this with your show?
— Let me tell you right away, I will not criticize the brands that much. It’s a good thing that our brands have ambitions. But I want them to be right. I want to help both sides with my demonstration. To show the consumer – things that correspond to the principle of “functionality – price – quality”. Brands also need to highlight the quality of the products they sell.
— In the program, you often talk to experts who are not familiar to the general audience. On what basis did you choose the experts?
— We examined a large number of people and chose those who really understand their business. These are people who not only love fashion, but also understand it on a professional level. They have experience and specialized training in their field.
— The theme of the first issue was the hoodie. Why this particular piece of clothing? You were also wearing a classic jacket and trousers.
— Because I don’t advertise here. It would be weird if I wore a hoodie of a certain brand. It was no coincidence that I chose the hoodie as the theme because the hoodie is the most popular thing in the world. Everyone has it.
— You say you don’t plan to criticize brands on your show. However, in our first issue we took a rather harsh look at Russian brands in the rather high price category. Aren’t you afraid of negative reactions from them?
— I did not criticize the brands. I just talked about my own feelings. When it comes to negativity towards brands, that’s their problem and their perception. I have a goal to help brands. I treated everyone very kindly and respectfully, and together with the experts I asked “what can be improved?” I tried to overcome his position. – this question was asked often in this issue. And the expert gave these brands some free advice, which I think is great. What’s so bad about this? Do you think I am an intermediary between experts, viewers and the brand? You can just call me Minister of Fashion. By the way, my friends call me that as a joke (laughing).
— In your first issue, you asked an expert: “Will Russian brands replace foreign brands that have left the market?” What do you think about that?
– I’m sure it is. The question is how accessible this will be to the consumer. If Russian brands are more loyal to the audience, balance their price policies, are ready to be in the red at the beginning of their journey, they will be 100% in the black.
— Now I’m going to the shopping center and I don’t know where to go, Russian brands could not convince me.
– They didn’t have time. A year and a half is not enough. Just give people time. So little time passed, we did not have time to set up marketing and production. People cannot learn in a year and a half what they have not been able to do for years.
– You say you have to give them time. What should we do now if a basic T-shirt costs 7 thousand rubles and, say, a coat costs 300 thousand and this is not even close to Max Mara? Where to go?
— How did they manage to survive in the Soviet Union without jeans and chewing gum? How did you do it before? Here we took Moden and made it ourselves. And today there is nothing special about it, it’s even cooler. By the way, there is a queue at the studio right now, you cannot pass. Therefore, workshops and sewing masters will now gain maximum momentum. There will be more individuality (laughing).
—What clothes dominate your wardrobe? Is this luxury or mass market? Is there a lot from high fashion houses?
— My wardrobe is very diverse. I don’t buy couture. He has a Cavalli jacket, but it’s archival. I have a few Brioni jackets from the luxury segment, that’s all. I don’t like expensive clothes at all. I have something from Balenciaga, I have something from Uniqlo. I really like Diesel, they make incredibly quality stuff and for me it’s value for money.
— Tell us about the beginning of your career: How to go from a sales manager to a personal consultant for VIP clients?
– It’s not possible. I was not hired as a personal consultant for VIP clients. I worked as a salesman at Moncler on the first floor of the Central Store. He was the best in the business. Then I said: “Guys, I want to go to all four floors and choose images for VIP clients.” They told me: “I’m sorry, you’re not mature enough.” They told me the first time, the second, the third and the fourth I had already left. They didn’t see this diamond in me (laughing). Now I am preparing two projects where I will open the curtain and be the creative director of big brands.
— Tell us about your famous clients. Who was the first?
— “The Voice” singer was Elina Chaga. He was the first to say: “Aleko, why don’t you try working with me as a stylist?” But after working with Anastasia Reshetova, people in the industry started to recognize me.
— Does word of mouth work in your profession?
— Probably more yes than no. But it didn’t help me at all. It is easier for me to set a goal for myself and go to this person.
— They write a lot on the Internet about how to dress Ksenia Sobchak. This is true?
“I’ve never worn this in my life.” I wanted to be his assistant. They interviewed me at length and looked at me from all sides. Meanwhile, her manager said: “If you were a stylist, we would hire you, but we won’t hire you as an assistant.” This was the starting point.
— You started working with Ksenia Borodina relatively recently. But not all Ksenia’s fans like the way you dress her. How do you deal with criticism?
— Ksenia has a very wide audience, all of Russia is looking at her. I am in no way trying to make everyone admire my paintings. I did what I liked and she liked it too. And if there is anyone who will attend, please come with us. If not, please continue your work. Either I am loved very much or I am not loved at all. And I’m absolutely calm about this. Of course, it wasn’t easy the first time. Not with Ksenia, but in general. With Ksenia I immediately realized that this was a huge audience. When you work for Russia you basically expect that someone won’t like it.
— Which Russian or foreign celebrity would you like to work with?
— Among the Russians I want to work with, I already work with them and I really like them. And from foreign countries, I would probably really like to work with Irina Shayk and Kim Kardashian. I believe Kim is the number one marketer out of all the stars in the world who knows how to market her name.
— There Kylie Jenner steps on Kim’s heels.
“Kylie is also very cool, but Kim is the founder and leading lady of all this. Everything he does is packaged so coolly that people love it. Isn’t that talent? It’s clear she didn’t do this alone. However, finding such people and motivating them in some way is also a skill.
— You always write about the Met Gala on your channel. If Russia had its own Met Gala, who would host it and what would the theme of the ball be?
-Philip Kirkorov! He knows how to put on a show! If not her, who broke Cher’s concert dressing record?! Who can ask in this sense if not she? Philip Kirkorov’s ball at the Bolshoi Theatre. And I would be happy to take part in the organization of the ball as creative director.
— In your opinion, which of our stars, other than Philip Kirkorov, has the coolest costumes?
– We have such stars. In terms of style, I can name a star that I really like: Valya Carnival. He’s starting to look very cool, I think he can show off his class.
— What would be the theme of the first Russian Met Gala?
– I will not be original – Russian chic, of course.