– Christina, the real question about the state of the restaurant industry is, of course, how she lived through the sanctions crisis. Is it possible to say that Moscow restaurants “sink”?
— Depends on the segment. If we take premium restaurants, then after the Michelin award (in October 2021 – socialbites.ca), everyone is booked 2-3-4 months in advance. And everything collapsed in a second. The foreigners who planned the trip did not come, and the Russian guests, who were able to have dinner in a Michelin-starred restaurant or a set for 15,000-20,000 rubles, first began to pack their bags. And if in covid all top restaurants have calmed down because this audience has not yet left and gone to restaurants, then this time it has left.
I divided the middle segment into two categories in my head. There are conditionally favorite restaurants that we all know – they were full.
People went where they were accustomed to calm down and feel good.
But newly opened restaurants in the same segment did not gain this audience, no one wanted to try something new. They were very upset.
The lowest segment is restaurants, where the average check is conditionally up to 700 rubles. Viewers began to buy products for the house. And here too, in terms of income, there was a strong decline in everything. So it always turned out to hit the middle, but this time the middle more or less survived according to my observations. Worst of all, they had tops and bottoms.
“At the same time, new businesses continue to open.
– in October [2021 года]Once everyone got a Michelin, restaurateurs started planning restaurants for the next Michelin year – and by February, some projects were frozen. We were waiting for someone to open it, I call the customer, I ask how he is, he says: “We all migrated.” And this is not the only case. And many famous restaurateurs have already adjusted their projects at the final stage – no longer to Michelin, but simply to open to avoid losses.
This year’s cool openings have been moved to summer. Sangre Fresca in May, then Alexander Oganezov opened Amy, Yug 22 was opened by Alexander Orlov, everyone praises the Loona project, Patriki, Zoika opened.
Since they were 90% ready, they had to be opened. There is also the restaurant logic. He understands that we can’t go anywhere and people have to spend money somewhere. Accordingly, where? There are remaining restaurants. Therefore, the same Sangre Fresca now shows 3 times more revenue than expected with the most optimistic forecast. This is the peak. People eat and drink well.
— Have the prices in restaurants changed? Which organizations were affected in the first place?
— Aram Mnatsakanov was the first to raise prices. And everyone was stunned, because if there is action and immediate reaction in some areas, then in the restaurant industry the reaction is delayed. And Aram acted very quickly – once and because the cost price increased, he raised the prices. This did not cause the most positive reaction.
Many froze. Now they thought that if we raised them in these conditions, we would lose the guests completely. And while we wait. Maybe there is some logic in that.
So they lost money?
— Their profits were less.
– Most Moscow enterprises still maintain prices?
– How could it be? Gathered in one place. But it all depends on the products. For example, if we talk about Savva, then here [шеф-повар] Andrey Shmakov found Russian suppliers from the very beginning. So there are sanctions, no sanctions – everything is fine for him, he still has the same suppliers. Of course they are trying to play with the prices, an increase of 20-30 rubles is normal. However, if we are talking about ARTEST, the owner of two Michelin stars, then there were a large number of suppliers from all over the world that are not currently available. And the products of the leftovers have become so expensive due to logistics that the cost per dish needs to be adjusted for another 3-4 thousand, which, of course, is impossible. First of all, it is seafood and fish.
Many restaurants have removed the octopus from the menu. Because the price of fish doubled, and octopus – almost 3-4 times.
– How were these fish problems solved?
– It all depends on what your goal and mission are. Ask one boss – they decided, ask the other – they will say that the situation is difficult. But it seems to me that the guest as a whole hardly noticed that something was missing, because the restaurants found a replacement. I have not heard from anyone that a meal or product is not enough. Everything is spinning somehow.
– So you can’t say that restaurants are suffering from sanctions?
“Maybe some of them are suffering. But it is not noticed. Or we are all used to it. When you find yourself in Italy or France and you eat these cheeses, prosciutto, drink wine, you immediately realize: “Ahh … We are actually in pain.” Or when you eat another beef in America.Sometimes we just don’t remember.
– The Michelin guide just arrived, we didn’t stay with us for six months and left. How was the reaction of the restaurants that received stars in October?
– Differently. For example, Mirko Dzago, with whom we opened Onest when the Michelin Award was presented in October last year. We were all hoping she would have a star this year. Mirko, 12 years old in Russia, long wanted such a restaurant, shared his thoughts with Arkady Novikov. But we didn’t have time…
Those who made Michelin restaurants were also upset.
And now there are those who realize that they have a star for life. Still, they feared the star might be taken away next year. And now he stays. But I believe, I hope Michelin will come back.
– Are there many foreign chiefs leaving Russia?
“Sabby Kenyon went to Australia as far as I know. I think he had a project in Singapore or Thailand. We all thought Emanuele Pollini would be gone, especially since she no longer has a project, but she’s still here. For the rest, it seems to me, everyone remained: David Emmerle, Regis Trigel, Mirko Dzago, William Lamberti – everyone is here. They are already our family.
– Previously, chefs traveled the world, learned from experience, communicated with colleagues. What is it now?
– All cooperation with their Western colleagues has been suspended because they do not understand what is going to happen now. Whether they will see the print or not. They are concerned about their image in the international community. They cannot tour.
I wanted to help the boy who dreamed of getting a job as a janitor at the Ritz in Paris to make that dream come true. And they said to me: “Chris, we will always help you, but now what is the Russian concierge at the Paris Ritz?”
Now the chefs are traveling around Russia, visiting each other. In the end, we will all see our country.
– So, it turns out that the restaurant industry feels good, as a domestic tourist arrives from the region, new projects are opened …
— … and we go to restaurants because we have nothing else to do. Because this is both a quiet spot and the only possible vacation we have left because you won’t be flying to Europe for the weekend, but you’ll have a great time in a restaurant. But projects with or without “class C” felt the challenge. Natural selection.
What’s going on in the bars?
“It’s worse than groceries here. And strong alcohol has disappeared and there are problems with wine. Among the survivors is Savva. We made a good purchase and we still live with what’s left. Most of these purchases were not. And for example, in one of our projects, Nobo, we almost We have to reprint the wine list every day. They ship what the wine trading company has. And the payment is up front like never before. And anyway, you will most likely not get what you ordered, they will bring something else that is currently available.
Some whiskey varieties are already out of stock, others are running out. Now Russian wine is sold at exorbitant prices. No champagne, nothing. But for example, if Artem Wig from El Copitas had answered this question, he would have said that they are very good at making cocktails with what they have in hand.
– What is your guess: what will be the fashion in restaurants in Russia? Will our trends differ from those of the West during Russia’s isolation?
– Here’s another question – did they break up before? I think they never got along. On the other hand, I was in 40 countries, I went to restaurants everywhere, of course. Moscow and St. I have not seen better restaurants than in St. Petersburg. Service, interior, food, chefs, social media accounts. And when I went to Michelin in New York, I was like, “Guys, seriously?”
– So the Russians are more demanding?
– I think yes.
Give us a dingy menu or a scratchy chair that rocks under you and we’re all gone.
And here you come – no hostess, a shabby table, a dirty, broken plate – and these are still some kind of stars.
And we taste better. And it’s easier to eat. We are constantly updating and improving ourselves. I believe our restaurant industry is the best in the world. Of course I’ve been in Denmark, Copenhagen, Sardinia, it’s a great super restaurant. There are many of them. But still, on a scale, I think we have better places.
– It turns out that we have good hopes with this Michelin?
That’s why it was a vacation. We thought that now people will come, see us, and finally, Russian cuisine will be recognized around the world and our products will take place in world trends. How many wonderful products do we have – fermented baked milk, buckwheat, cone jam, pickles. I got goosebumps. And everyone would know that.
It’s hard now. But we are still great. And we will keep going, we will do even more. But so far, it seems that Russia and the world arena are incompatible.