The standard is how much?
If the manufacturer writes in the manual that the normal oil consumption in difficult conditions is 600 g (and even higher!) per 1000 km, he is disingenuous. This is a huge expense, unacceptable for a serviceable engine. And manufacturers act in such a way as to cover up design flaws and not maintain cars with an honest oil burner under warranty.
But zero oil consumption cannot be equal. Lubrication should remain on the surface of the cylinder when the piston moves. Otherwise, the upper piston ring will run “dry” – and this will lead to sticking and chafing. And if there are oil particles present during the working stroke, they should burn out. Therefore, the consumption for a usable engine is less than 50-100 g per 1000 km.
Maslozhor usually sneaks undetected. First you need to add oil little by little. But if you don’t pay attention to waste, it moves forward. And then you will have to top up gallons of oil between replacements.
It is better not to bring this up and deal with the oil burner at the initial stage.
Sometimes it is not the producers who are responsible for the oil combustion, but the carriers. Especially if the machine is repeatedly overloaded. A cold engine is heavily loaded when climbing to the top level of the car transporter. This way you can set the piston rings on fire and start the oil burner.
1. Check ventilation
The crankcase ventilation system creates a small vacuum in the space under the engine’s piston. And crankcase gases escaping from the combustion chamber, on the contrary, increase the pressure there. Therefore, they must be cleaned of the smallest oil droplets and sent to the engine’s intake tract so that they enter the cylinders and burn out.
It is necessary to check and clean the oil separator, as well as the valve that limits the amount of vacuum in the crankcase. If it freezes, the intake system will suck oil out of the engine while it itself becomes contaminated. The throttle body will be covered with oil.
2. Clean the nozzles
If the injectors don’t spray the fuel properly, it burns inefficiently and deposits on the cylinder walls. This leads to a dilution of the engine oil, making it more volatile, easier to enter the crankcase ventilation system, through the rings it quickly sneaks into the upper piston space and burns there.
Therefore, check the nozzles for the quality of the spray and rinse them if necessary. Injectors of direct injection engines, which are difficult to disassemble, can be cleaned with detergent additives to the fuel.
You can fill the car with gasoline with improved cleaning properties. Then there is hope to keep the sprinklers and the whole energy system clean.
3. We use high octane fuel
What kind of gasoline to top up is an eternally controversial topic. To prevent oil burn, it is better to use fuel with a high octane rating. When running on low-octane gasoline, the engine temperature rises, leading to coking of the piston rings. Through them, oil begins to enter the combustion chamber.
Only high octane gasoline is marked on the lid of the gas tank of the editors Largus with the K4M engine. We filled it 140,000 km. There is not even a trace of an oil burner.
4. We monitor the temperature
Modern engines are very “hot”. The operating temperature can reach 115°C or more. And even high-quality heat-resistant oils work to their limits. A little more – and the oil begins to coke in the piston grooves, as a result of which the rings lose their mobility.
The most common cause of overheating is dirty engine and air conditioning radiators. So wash them often. Even if the air conditioning radiator appears clean from the outside, a layer of lint and dust can build up between the radiator and the engine’s heat exchanger, preventing air from passing through.
The second reason for overheating is fine-mesh nets, with which the owners protect the radiators from insects and pebbles. Reject them or put in a bigger grid.
The third reason is the installation of advanced emergency engine compartment protection. They aggravate the engine compartment clearance, causing the engine temperature to rise.
If your car doesn’t have a temperature gauge, use trip computers or a combination of the ELM 327 scanner with a smartphone program that displays the temperature to the degree for control.
5. Change the oil every hour
The oil burner depends on the operating conditions. A traffic jam or traffic on the highway are very different modes of operation for the engine. Therefore, some engines may experience increased oil consumption on trips up to 100,000 km, while others do not change the oil level.
Oil consumption is often not apparent immediately after replacement, but only after 5000-7000 km. Don’t worry – it’s not an oil burner yet! It’s just that the additives in the oil wear out over time and it starts to burn out.
There are two reasons: either the oil is of insufficient quality, or the working conditions are difficult. Therefore, it is better not to change the oil by mileage, but by engine hours (after about 300 hours of operation) or focus on the average speed of the car. If it is 20-25 km / h, the oil should be changed every 7500 km.
6. Fill in a more viscous oil
It is in principle possible to use thick oil with a high temperature viscosity (numbers in the designation after W) 40 or 50, but only for older engines. Modern engines with their thinnest channels can experience oil starvation. Therefore, it is better to experiment within the viscosities allowed by the manufacturer’s instructions.
7. We apply decarbonization
This is the last way to handle the oil burner before disassembling the engine.
On a warm engine we turn out the candles and pour foam decoking into the cylinders. After a 10-minute break, we pump dirty liquid from the cylinders. Be sure to apply lubricant to the cylinder walls so that the surfaces degreased after decarburization do not rise.
Pour decoking fluid into the oil so that it acts on the pistons from below and washes the oil scraper rings. Drain the oil after idling for 10 minutes. Then we use flushing oil and complete the decarbonization.
We top up high-quality oil and observe the result. The oil burner may stop.
It is better to use foam decarburization, because its efficiency is higher – it cleans the entire combustion chamber.
I recommend using all of these tips (except maybe the last one), even if your car’s engine isn’t already suffering from oil burn, just for prevention. Perhaps then the maslozhor will not appear at all.
- The American Cyclo automotive chemicals and SUPROTEC additives help maintain the vehicle’s components and assemblies in good condition.
- Read how to properly maintain a car in the books of the publishing house “Behind the wheel”.
- “Behind the wheel” can also be read on VKontakte.
Photo: Driving and depositphotos.com
This phenomenon is also known as waste or increased oil consumption. But if the situation is not very neglected, it is possible to overcome it with prevention. And without expensive engine repairs.
7 effective ways to eliminate the oil burner (without disassembling the engine)
Source: Z R