Meta rewrite

Slow to change wheels

In spring, drivers aren’t in as big of a rush to swap tires as they are in autumn. When the first snowfalls appear, many head to tire shops all at once. In spring there aren’t the same bottlenecks. The car behaves normally, and it can feel tempting to delay tire changes.

But delaying tire changes can be costly for several reasons. Winter tires use a soft rubber compound to stay pliable in cold weather. That softness wears out Velcro and studded tires faster. Studded tires also shed metal spikes as soft rubber loses its grip.

Winter tires tend to be paired with slower speeds and cautious driving. As temperatures rise, drivers push harder, and for the upcoming season the tire tread may fall below the minimum safe profile of 4 mm.

Those who wait too long risk sharing the road with others who already switched. At warmer temperatures, braking performance for both studded and winter friction tires drops noticeably below that of even inexpensive summer tires. In a worst-case scenario, a margin of ten centimeters in braking distance can be the difference between a close call and a collision.

Additionally, winter tires offer less stability during quick, sharp maneuvers compared with summer tires.

This tire shows adequate tread height but has lost its studs due to wear in a warmer season.

Tires not inspected

Summer driving often means higher speeds and greater stress on tires. The integrity of the tire must be checked carefully. If rims aren’t present, inspect for internal flaws, uneven wear, and sharp objects that may not be visible from the outside. Outside, assess the tread height to determine whether there will be enough tires for the season.

Look for deep cuts and, most concerning, exposed steel cords. If cords are visible, the tire should be replaced. It’s also important to remove stones and glass fragments from tread grooves, as these can cut the tread to the cords and allow moisture to penetrate.

In cases of damage, the tire should be repaired or kept as a spare.

Install it any way

After inspecting, the next step is to decide which tire goes on the front axle and which on the rear. The best practice is to place the strongest tires on the front. When speed demands high grip at the rear, many drivers simply avoid accelerating aggressively. Prioritize the tires with the best overall condition and the greatest remaining tread height.

If winter damage requires buying a few new tires after the season, those should be prioritized. It may even be worth replacing tires across the entire vehicle so tread wear remains balanced.

Distort thresholds

To save time, tire shops sometimes lift a car from the middle so two wheels come off the ground at once. For older cars with weakened bodies due to corrosion, this method can be risky. Inform the workshop beforehand to prevent potential damage and disputes later.

Older vehicles deserve extra caution. If possible, place a board under the jack to distribute pressure across more of the frame.

Forget maintenance

Changing tires is a good moment to assess the vehicle’s overall condition. With the wheels removed, suspension, steering, braking, and drivetrain components are visible. Either perform a careful self-check or ask a tire mechanic to inspect for wear or leaks. On rough roads, suspension and steering components often get neglected, though brakes, body mounts, and fasteners should be checked.

Oil or fluid leaks from the engine or transmission are easier to spot with the wheels off.

Don’t remember “secrets”

If the secret to loosening bolts has been misplaced, it’s often best to rely on a reputable service. Difficult nuts or bolts can require special tools or methods, and the risk of damaging alloy wheels is higher when improper tools are used.

That said, the secret bolts should be loosened first and tightened last, ideally with a torque wrench that matches the vehicle’s specification. Leave the workshop immediately if technicians attempt to loosen them with a pneumatic impact wrench, as this can cause costly damage.

Sometimes removing the secret bolts is a nerve-wracking process. If only one or two are truly seized, professionals can still resolve it without drama.

Screwed in a hurry

Before mounting wheels, clean the mating surfaces of the rotor and hub from debris. Apply copper grease to the hub to prevent vibrations caused by even tiny particles. If necessary, place spacers between the hub and the disc’s center hole.

Nuts or bolts should be tightened by hand first to preserve threads. Final tightening can be done with any tool, but a torque wrench is strongly recommended to ensure the correct torque.

Often balancing

If there is one set of wheels and two tires, the setup should be balanced after each installation. If there are two complete wheel sets, balance may be saved when the previous season showed no weight loss and no flat tires. If a noticeable vibration appears after installation, balancing is necessary at the workshop.

When no obvious knock is felt after mounting, the balancing outcome can be considered successful and costs saved. If there is a vibration, balancing should be performed.

Helpful advice

Repeated bead seating can weaken the tire-rim seal and reduce long-term tightness. If four wheels are available and two tire sets, consider acquiring a second set of inexpensive wheels, perhaps steel, so winter tires go on one set and summer tires on the other. This approach saves money and reduces wear from frequent tire changes on a machine that isn’t designed to handle rapid tire swaps.

• To save money, Za Rulem offers a broad range of spare parts and consumables under its brand, with full listings available at clutch.
• The topic can also be explored on Viber.